Tag Archives: truffles

EVERY DAY I’M TRUFFLIN’

Pardon in advance for title of blog post, it just couldn’t be helped. This pot of mushroom risotto was determined to be paired with the last of our summer truffle, fortunately much less expensive than the ones we buy in the winter, but also slightly less aromatic and melty. But still delicious, especially with grilled salmon, blanched green beans, and Santa Barbara Pinot Noir (very unlike us!). Not that the risotto needed it, but I couldn’t resist adding a swig of the truffle-scented olive oil Chez Bruno generously gifted us. Gilding the lily, etc.

EGGS AND TRUFFLES

When Adam and I were in Provence, we went to an out of control truffle-themed restaurant called Chez Bruno (more on it soon!). One of my favorite courses was the truffle and scrambled eggs, a classic pairing in traditional French cuisine. Bruno’s eggs, with its soft, liquidy curds, were cooked perfectly. We ate it like a soup. Slurp. So delicious. After returning to Montreal, we recreated the dish (also throwing it on some toast and adding chives). I decided the key to exquisite scrambled eggs is very low heat and lots of butter stirred in at the end. The texture should be super loose, creamy, and light, almost like a pudding. (There’s a nice truffled scrambled egg recipe here). Oh, and anther good tip, courtesy of Richard Olney: Try rubbing your wooden spoon with raw garlic, which will impart your dish with its essence while you stir.

DIY TRUFFLES

This weekend I made a huge batch of truffles for my friend Himo, the designer behind Pearls and Swine. He held a special Valentine’s Day sale at his studio space, and I made some lavender-spiked truffles dusted with fleur de sel for him to give to customers while they sipped on espresso and tried on jewelry. (Doesn’t that sound like an amazing way to spend your Saturday afternoon?)

Truffles are tremendously easy to make — the most important thing to remember is that it requires equal amounts cream and chocolate, emulsified into a rich, silky, smooth ganache that is then chilled and scooped into tiny truffle-sized balls. I use heavy whipping cream (at least 35%) and extra-bitter chocolate (anything about 70%). Because there are so few ingredients, it’s important to buy the very best you can afford or find.

Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan (for about 30-40 truffles, try 8-10 oz cream), and then pour into a bowl filled with chopped chocolate. Whisk quickly; it should melt immediately into a shiny ganache. I like to pour my ganache into a shallow, flat baking dish, where it sits on the counter for 30-40 minutes. Then into the refrigerator it goes to set and chill for at least 2-3 hours, at which point it is ready to be scooped (with a teaspoon or melon baller) into tiny balls.

Sift 1/2 cup high-quality cocoa powder (again, something nice; anything you would be happy to eat raw) into a shallow dish; roll the truffles in the mixture and tap off any excess. Freeze for 20-30 minutes or eat right away (I find that these truffles are quite soft at room temperature).

The best part is inserting all of the fun extras; try infusing seeds in the cream as it comes to a boil (coffee beans, lavender seeds, cardamom pods, chili peppers, black peppercorns, your favorite tea) and then straining out the bits before stirring into chocolate. I also love mixing spices into your cocoa mixture (cayenne powder, dried tumeric, flaked + unsweetened coconut) and topping with a small pinch of fleur de sel. It’s just as easy to stir in a flavor into the cream itself, like a tablespoon of rose water, orange blossom water, citrus zest or the scraped seeds of a vanilla pod.

So easy and fun to customize, and a very sweet present for friends or loved ones for Valentine’s Day!

MAKING THE MOST OF IT

Cooking with leftovers:

(Leftover) truffle on buttered eggs, over-easy.

(Leftover) cinnamon-spiced roast duck, with chickpeas, red onion + basmati rice.

TRUFFLE UP

We recently scored a truffle from Alba. The smell of our truffle is so strong, I can pick up a whiff of its earthy, funky deliciousness from two rooms away. I don’t have that much experience with truffles, but I have learned that these things are very good with them: eggs, cream, butter, and mushrooms. To celebrate the delivery of our truffle, we made a deceptively easy pasta dish — just some fresh tagliatelle soaked in melted butter, a splash of cream, porcini mushrooms, and an egg yolk whisked in. Topped with extremely generous shavings of truffle, it was a simple meal that I’ll never forget.

[Tip! To best extend its shelf life (apparently they're best a few days after delivery), we stuck it in a huge jar with some butter and eggs. The truffle infused the jar's contents with its flavor, and I've been enjoyed truffled butter on my toast in the mornings.]