I recently splurged on a big bundle of white asparagus at the Jean Talon market. (I did the math — almost $1 per spear!) The spears, fat, pearlescent, and tipped with faint lavender and the palest green, were so beautiful. They glowed. I couldn’t resist. White asparagus, which is much more delicate-tasting than its above-ground green counterparts, doesn’t like to be roasted. It turns them an unappealing muddy color and makes them bitter. So I kept it extremely simple and steamed the trimmed, peeled spears for four minutes, and served them warm with good French ham. The perfect early summer snack, and finger food, too!