Tag Archives: risotto

HAPPY MATCH

Whenever we see a good deal on fresh lobsters, we buy one or two. Always. A local supermarket was offering fresh, whole lobsters for 7.99/lb, so without thinking about it too much, we bought one and made a comforting pot of risotto. Easiest, fastest way to feel super fancy.

Lobster Risotto

[Note: Some people insist that a proper risotto should have cream, butter, and cheese, but it's so easy to make a gorgeous, creamy risotto without any of these things. Now that I know how good it is without those things, I rarely add them. Why bother? So I omitted all of those ingredients and used a big spoonful of goose fat instead. Equal evils, I guess. This would also be nice with a bit of lemon juice and zest. Also, Richard Olney has a nice tip for successful risotto — bring the liquid, whether it's wine, broth, or water, to a low simmer, so you're ladling hot liquid onto hot rice.]

1 cup arborio rice
2 shallots, chopped and minced
3 cloves fresh garlic, minced (we love the ‘Music’ variety that can be found at the market for a pretty penny)
2 cups white wine
2 cups chicken stock (I always keep some frozen, the taste is so much deeper than the store-bought stuff)
1 small lobster, boiled and chopped into big pieces (keep those magnificent claws intact)
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper
fresh tarragon and parsley, torn

—In a heavy, enamel-coated cast iron pot, gently heat olive oil (and goose fat, if you’re using it!) and saute shallots until soft. Do not brown.
—Add rice and garlic and stir, 30 seconds, to coat and lightly toast. Salt generously.
—Add ladles of white wine and chicken broth, alternating, and stir. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. When the liquid has reduced by half, add another ladle of liquid.
—As the risotto thickens, the rice should be tender but have a definite bite to it. In the final moments, stir in the boiled lobster pieces.
—Top with torn tarragon, parsley, freshly cracked black pepper, lemon wedges, and a chilled bottle of white Burgundy.

SERIOUSLY SALTIMBOCCA

Adam recently had the brilliant idea to make saltimbocca, a delicious Italian dish of veal cutlets fried with sage and prosciutto. I don’t usually like fussy dishes, but I have to admit that this meal was very fun to assemble — it felt like I was stitching our meal together. It’s not so much about following a recipe (though this recipe seems to be quite similar) as it is just getting the vibe right: paper-thin veal cutlets are carefully threaded with sage leaves and prosciutto, dusted with salt and pepper, and then dredged in a bit of flour. We fried our saltimbocca in a skillet filled with hot, frothing butter, and fried them until crispy.

I served the veal with a simple butternut squash + brown butter risotto, and Adam fried up some mushrooms and made my favorite cabbage dish (his specialty): sauteed cabbage with bacon and lemon. Simple, but blows my mind every time. I eat platefuls of this stuff and never get tired of it.

[Oh, and over at Popcorn Youth: a stunning Trish Keenan mix — RIP — and a link to my latest piece for Signal to Noise].

PUMPKINS + MARJORAM

On one chilly afternoon Adam showed up at my work, on his bike, out of breath, and carrying two huge black garbage bags. He had just come from Jean Talon, where the guys at Shamrock were about to throw away their entire (enormous) seasonal pumpkin display.

Being ever resourceful, Adam leaped on the chance to take home 150 lbs of pumpkin for free, and he started carting over pumpkins, garbage bag by garbage bag, leaving them at Le Pick Up. Anything you could imagine — twisting green gourds, gigantic vermilion pumpkins, yellow squash the size of basketballs, tiny decorative squash with spots, medium-sized pumpkins covered in warts — Adam brought it home. I made cakes and pies with those pumpkins for weeks — and Le Pick Up made a mean curried pumpkin soup with the loot, too — but my favorite  pumpkin-themed dish thus far has been our marjoram-pumpkin risotto.

I had just eaten a transcendental butternut squash risotto topped with tiny scallops at Le Latini and was eager to replicate the dish. I think ours was much better. I stirred arborio rice with butter, olive oil, white wine, chopped garlic and shallots, lemon zest, a few leaves of bay, and some chicken stock, stirring periodically and adding more broth when it got dry. We added at least three tablespoons of minced fresh marjoram. The smell is magnificent, full of pine and resin and citrus — so powerful, herbaceous, and unique, and a wonderful pair for our mellow pumpkin, which we roasted in small cubes and added to the risotto halfway through. The pumpkin melted into the rice, forming a beautiful, creamy sauce.

We ate this alongside a bowl of sauteed mushrooms and plate of chopped sauteed beet greens, blanched quickly then fried with garlic and chili oil. Finished with  wedges of thick brown bread, smears of salted butter, and tangy ‘Grey Owl’ goat cheese covered in ashes, it was one of the best vegetarian meals I’ve had all fall.