Tag Archives: memories

YEAR OF THE WATER DRAGON

Chinese New Year has always been my favorite holiday. (Thanksgiving is a close second). When I was growing up, my parents would throw epic annual parties at our house that usually ended in drunken Chinese opera singing and gifts of money in tiny red envelopes. (How I treasured those envelopes!) Sometimes my mom would make dumplings from scratch, and everyone would rave at how delicious they were. She always kept it simple — just pork and minced chives. Our galas became so infamous that when I was in high school, my friends, begging for an invitation, would crash our house in droves of 5 and 10.

Last year, with the help of my friend Yung Chang, I hosted an unbelievable party where we made thousands of dumplings and did karaoke. Okay, the night was really, really, really epic. But this year, for the year of the water dragon, I almost didn’t throw a party. Yung was away on set for his latest film, and Adam was gone on another assignment. No celebration this year, I thought.

Unexpectedly, at the eleventh hour, I got inspired. I emailed a small but solid gang of friends, and bought a few bags of frozen (sorry, Mom) dumplings, some vegetables, and a gorgeous striped sea bass from Marche Oriental, and began to cook. The dinner was slightly more elaborate than defrosted dumplings and cold beer, but still simple, simple, simple. There was Chinese broccoli coated in black vinegar, dan dan noodles provided by Bartek, crispy fried noodles (all those noodles are excellent for longevity), a beautiful cabbage salad made by Katherine, and that tender sea bass, poached for four minutes in salted water and then coated in a luscious, aromatic sauce.

I’m a fan of the impromptu gathering, of the lower expectations and relaxed vibes. As a Libra, I will always love a big, out of control party, but I secretly prefer the chill zone of a small group and simple offerings. You know when you have a really good feeling about a year? I have a great feeling about 2012.

K, my favorite recipe for dumpling dunking sauce:

3 T smooth peanut butter

4-6 T reduced sodium soy sauce, to taste (add a few more shakes if your peanut butter is on the sweet side)

2-4 T rice vinegar (I also like the more intense black vinegar)

2-3 T finely minced ginger

2-3 T finely minced garlic

2-4 t sriracha or red chili paste (or even more if you’re feeling gutsy)

2 t sesame oil

2 t oyster sauce

big handful cilantro, finely chopped another big handful parsley, finely chopped

few stems scallions, chopped

the juice of a lime or lemon

salt and black pepper, to taste

Add all ingredients and stir until smooth. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. Let the flavors get to know one another. Use for dumpling dipping and serve with extra dishes of black vinegar and hot sauce.

Happy New Year!!!!!!

HOLIDAY LIVING

No matter where I’m living, every year I throw a big Cinco de Mayo party. When I was living in Ithaca, I invited a hundred people over to my friend’s big house by the lake and we ate grilled chicken thighs and corn on the cob slathered with lime butter and queso fresco. We drank Coronas spiked with hot sauce and danced to Juanes until 3am.We decorated the house with dollar store decorations that made my friend’s backyard look like a used car sales lot, and we even bought a pinata and stuffed it with candy. There was beer pong, a raging grill, a live reggae band, and blankets scattered all over the hillside. All of the girls wore pretty, embroidered cotton dresses, and the boys brought guitars and played music in the grass.

But this year, I called up the AEB crew, Mark, and Bartek, and cooked up a simple Mexican-inspired supper.

After a rad field trip to Supermarché Andes, I made crema from scratch. (It’s so simple, just bring heavy cream to a warmish-room temperature in a small pot, then stir in sour cream and let sit in a warm area with the jar lid loosened. After 12 hours, the mixture will have considerably thickened to a luscious cream, and is great straight out of the jar, if you have no restraint, like me.) I also made two salsas — one roasted tomato with chipotles in adobo, the other a fresh spicy tomatillo salsa. There was a quick red onion pickle relish, which marinated in freshly squeezed orange juice, apple cider vinegar, sugar and peppercorns for a day before eating. There were fresh radishes, limes, and poblano peppers. I made a fennel and carrot escabeche with savory granola, adapted from the irresistible recipe on Lottie + Doof. (And then snacked on the escabeche and granola for the rest of the week). I turned on the barbecue and grilled pork tenderloin in adobo. There was also Mexican chorizo and flank steak marinated in pureed onions, garlic, lime, and cumin. That all went on the grill, too. All of this was tucked into warm corn tortillas, with refried black beans, queso fresco, Mexican rice, and crispy fingerling potatoes to round things out. There was so much food, it was probably a good thing that I didn’t make those sopaipillas that I had my eye on.

JUST BE SIMPLE AGAIN

Yesterday someone very special flew out of Portland and left me feeling more than a little bit empty. After puttering around the kitchen for a few hours feeling sorry for myself, I pulled myself together and whipped up my famous baked ziti, which has thrilled friends, family and countless touring musicians for years. My baked ziti has no meat, is full of vegetables, is very cheap to make, and happens to taste just like pizza. (It’s definitely similar to this baked ziti at Ezra Pound Cake).

Build a simple sauce in a stove pan: the base is olive oil, carrots, red onion, celery, garlic, oregano and red pepper flakes that sizzle softly for 7-8 minutes. (Meanwhile: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and liberally butter a baking dish.) At this point, it’s wonderful to add any number of vegetables to the dish. Hunks of zucchini, squash, mushrooms, red bell peppers, broccoli and eggplant work great — the idea is tons of gently cooked vegetables with a bit of bite.

Add a can of San Marzano tomatoes and stir to combine (although fresh garden tomatoes, peeled and quartered, would clearly be superior). While that simmers and reduces into a velvety mash, cook a pound of pasta (I used penne rigate here, but ziti obviously rules too) until extremely al dente and then toss it into the sauce, along with tiny cubes of fresh mozzarella. Dump the sauced pasta into the baking dish and gently layer a lacy web of thickly sliced discs of mozzarella over the pasta, and into the oven it goes for 45 minutes.

I hadn’t made baked ziti in over a year, and it went a little too long in the oven, but that can be a good thing. Once I made baked ziti in Ithaca for a touring guitarist and some friends and ran out while it was in the oven to buy more wine at the corner store. Naturally, I forgot my keys and my cell phone and was locked out of my apartment until a neighbor leaving 30 minutes later let me inside. I dashed upstairs, everyone thought I was gone a normal amount of time, I was super frazzled, and the baked ziti was way overcooked but magically the fresh mozzarella crust turned out extra chewy and crispy. Only happy endings with this dish.

DON’T KNOW MUCH (BUT I KNOW I LOVE YOU)

It’s funny to think that you can go your entire childhood without really ever eating certain specific foods — like Brussels sprouts. My mother made all kinds of weird and delicious vegetables — she is the best cook I have ever met, to this day — but never these sumptuous little mini cabbages. Why? Maybe they don’t have them in China? If I ever have kids, I am going to cook so much random stuff of infinite variety so they can figure out what they like best.

For me, I figured out that Brussels sprouts is one of my best, especially when caramelized in the oven for 30 minutes until golden brown and sizzling, finished with a pat of butter and dripping with lemon juice, tossed with whole wheat penne and parsley and chopped walnuts. This would have been perfect with shaved Pecorino, but I was out. This would have been great with roast pork, too, or lima beans, or salsa, or poached eggs. The best is when the outer leaves of the sprout fall off in the oven and get really crispy and charred, like mini potato chips. Fantastic.

GOLDEN GIRLS

I love these colorful boat shoes for the summer. They look so comfortable and easy. I used to have a crazy collection of cheap sneakers when I was a teenager – converse, simple, vans, jack purcells, keds, adidas sambas. My favorite pair of sneakers ever were these Converse low tops from 4th grade – they were bright teal green and had navy gingham lining on the inside. Obviously everyone was super jealous. My second favorite pair of sneakers were plain black converse all-stars. Eventually I had to duct tape the soles together so they wouldn’t disintegrate. They did anyway. I drew cartoons on the rubber soles and hid the initials of boys that I liked, erasing them when I was done with the crush.

[All photos via Keep]

OUTLAW FOR MY LOVE

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pte3Jg-2Ax4]

RIP Alex Chilton.

I’ll always remember the first time I heard about Big Star – I found their first two albums at my local library growing up, even though the most that I knew about them was through listening to The Replacements in high school. In college, I found a bunch of solo Alex Chilton tapes  for a dollar each at Amoeba in Berkeley, and fell in love hard. Last year, I eyed the Big Star box set with longing. Maybe now is the time to finally buy it.

CONSTANT CRAVING

In a pretty much perfect pairing of site and subject, The Selby recently posted an intoxicating photo essay about Mast Brothers Chocolate, an American craft chocolate producer based in Brooklyn, NY. I almost fell out of my chair when I scrolled through the photos because I bought their chocolate on my last trip to Brooklyn at a small cheese shop in Williamsburg, as part of an elaborate care package for my boyfriend. Ah, memories. I think I bought a bar of dark chocolate with fleur de sel, and another that was ‘salt and pepper’ flavored, but to be honest, I mostly just loved the pretty wrapping. [All photos via The Selby]

I WANNA DO RIGHT, BUT NOT RIGHT NOW

Dinner: Steamed Canadian cod in foil packets with cilantro stems and scallions; sauteed spinach and quartered mushrooms in white wine; pan friend (typo, but I’m keeping it) potatoes with basil.

Found a bunch of my old portfolios from high school and college. Feels like 10 lifetimes ago. That drawing, that Joni is taking over, is like this:

Sketch with 5 minute time limit. That hand is totally fucked, but that was a fun time in my life. I remember seeing this model around town, like, at bars, a few years later and not really knowing what to say. Gotta do more stuff like this in the new year.

Your Friday dose of Kate. Happy weekend!

Listening: Gillian Welch, who is playing with David Rawlings on Feb. 2 at the Belly Up. Although I’d rather not, I’ll probably be going by myself. I can’t believe I’ve never seen her live! Gillian, if you are reading this, I moved back to California, and of course, I would love to be your best friend.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NPEj63d0jY]