The French sure know how to appreciate a terrific loaf of bread. It seems like every day people around me are deciding not to have wheat be a part of their lives. My gluten-loving friends are dropping like flies. Perversely, their aversion to wheat only serves to reinforce my love of all things yeasted and chewy, like this spectacular loaf of daisy-shaped bread from Pains D’exclamation in La Malbaie. (This boulangerie also made what was probably the best chocolate chip cookie of my life — salty and rich, like browned butter shortbread!) Despite testimonials from my friends who swear that they feel psychically and physically incredible now that they don’t have gluten in their lives, I, on the other hand, only feel more resolve and dedication in my love of well-made bread and pastry.