Tag Archives: asparagus

SUMMER SNACKING

I recently splurged on a big bundle of white asparagus at the Jean Talon market. (I did the math — almost $1 per spear!) The spears, fat, pearlescent, and tipped with faint lavender and the palest green, were so beautiful. They glowed. I couldn’t resist. White asparagus, which is much more delicate-tasting than its above-ground green counterparts, doesn’t like to be roasted. It turns them an unappealing muddy color and makes them bitter. So I kept it extremely simple and steamed the trimmed, peeled spears for four minutes, and served them warm with good French ham. The perfect early summer snack, and finger food, too!

A FEW EASY PIECES

I don’t know if it’s the rising temperatures, the creeping hem lengths, or the sudden abundance of proper produce, but I’ve been cooking less and less. The typically powerful cravings — cheese, butter, cream, meat — haven’t disappeared, but they haunt me much less. (As if I could ever give up cheese). But some nights, all that takes to make me happy, apparently, is a rosy trout filet, a few fat spears of asparagus, one big handful of fresh spinach, and lemon draped over everything.

SO READY FOR SPRING

So deeply, irrepressibly excited for the oncoming onslaught of spring vegetables. So much so that even the slightest glance at a bundle of peas, asparagus, or butter lettuce — no matter how wizened, unripe, or generally suspicious looking — results in the vegetables ending up in my hands, and coming home with me. It’s not quite time yet, but it will be, soon. And I’ll be ready.

1. I know it doesn’t look like much, but I had so much fun playing around with puntarelle, a bitter Roman vegetable similar to chicory. If you can find it, peel and trim its stalks, grate, and toss with an anchovy-garlic-lemon-oil dressing. It’s magnificent, full of bitterness, salt and crunch. Don’t forget the Pecorino.

2. A spring vegetable salad that turned into something slightly more wicked with the addition of shaved truffles, sunny-side up eggs, and smoked duck “bacon”. Decadence aside, I couldn’t ignore the nubile firmness of the freshly shucked peas, the tender crunch of the Boston lettuce, and the cool cucumber crescents. I garnished this with deep fried sage and a classically French lemon shallot-scallion vinaigrette.

3. Even my standard breakfast of eggs and toast gets livelier when paired with quick oven-roasted baby asparagus, sprinkled with minced garlic and covered with a squirt of lemon. (I draped a few slices of coppa over the stalks, too.) We couldn’t stop exclaiming about what a perfect breakfast it was, so simple and pure and good.

COOL MY DESIRE

I know, I know. Another beet-related post. But! A heart-shaped beet! Heartbeats. Heartbeet. Beet still, my heart.

Another easy lunch, minimal time in kitchen so as to maximize time spent lolling in grass outside: seared asparagus bullets doused in lemon and black pepper, piled on top of a warmed baguette half smeared with creamy chevre. The other half, the same but different: leftover lentils (from the random spinach salad I have pictured up there) heaped high, served alongside spicy baby arugula lightly dressed in vinegar and oil. I tried pressing both sides together for a sandwich: sandwich fail. Open-faced only, this one is.

I have dear friends from New York are visiting tomorrow! I’ve been keeping a running a list of vegetarian dishes I liked for my veggie pals. The top picks: the pickled asparagus and mushrooms at Saraveza (super crazy bottled beer selection too); the tiny red radishes smeared with French butter and sprinkled with salt at Navarre (thanks, Jennifer — you were right, the place is outrageously good); cardamom-scented French pressed Extracto coffee at the Wolf & Bear’s cart outside of my house; roasted cauliflower and green onion sandwich at Bunk (slowly eating my way through the entire menu there); sweet peppers and onion pizza at Apizza Scholls (recommended by just about everyone on the planet, but first by my dear pizza-loving pals at Flipped Out Records); the beet salad at Sub Rosa; the baked grapefruit at Broder (MMM); smoked trout and capers at Savoy (okay, not vegetarian). And that’s just the vegetarian stuff that I absolutely, bottom-line loved.

Would be remiss not to mention the one non-veggie thing I indulged in this past week: a medium-rare hamburger with sharp cheddar and pickled onions on brioche at Clyde Common, located in the Ace Hotel downtown.

MAKE IT USELESS STUFF OR SKIP IT

Shortly after I made the aforementioned spinach salad with lentils and bacon, I used the leftover bacon grease in the cast iron pan to make pasta. Frugal!

One bundle of fresh asparagus, one can of chickpeas and half a yellow onion were quickly fried in nearly 2 tbsps of bacon grease (I know). I boiled some whole wheat spaghetti and added to toss in the pan alongside a handful of walnuts, but the dish was too rich for me. Even after adding the juice of a lemon for some much-needed acid, it still gave me a stomachache afterward. Bacon grease… in moderation. In moderation. Here I am, gravely suffering delicious cooking indignities so that you don’t make the same mistakes. Don’t be like me! Skimp on bacon grease.

But Amy Hempel? Never in moderation! I have found many other Hempel admirers in Portland… glad to see her ultra dark, beach-casualty, earthquake-spiked L.A. aesthetic transcends state borders.

On the morning she was moved to the cemetery, the one where Al Jolson is buried, I enrolled in a “Fear of Flying” class. “What is your worst fear?” the instructor asked, and I answered, “That I will finish this course and still be afraid.”

SPRINGTIME CAN KILL YOU

Kudos to the Potato Perspective, because when I was at the Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning I picked up a sack of super ugly purple-black potatoes at only $1/lb. An old grizzly gent had artfully (not) arranged a mess of root vegetables on a huge wooden table – potatoes of all stripes, grubby parsnips, knotted carrots, dingy beets, all mixed together, all a dollar a pound. But once washed and scrubbed of grit, the papery, thin medallions of potato looked so special.

In a skillet fried at low heat with a big pat of butter, tubes of green onions and smoked paprika they turned a less appetizing rusty brown color. They were still rich and creamy, particularly when paired with a fast saute of spring vegetables: chiclet-sized bites of asparagus, ribbons of leftover swiss chard, and diced sweet onion flash fried at high heat with olive oil and lemon. I was tempted to throw the entire mess into a pot and puree into a creamy soup but I was hungry and so it was.

smile around the face

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this simple summer meal had four parts, each of which shone in their own unique way. it is partly cobbled together ingredients from my fridge and partly farmers market purchases, and all of it was extremely fresh, healthy and delicious. each dish was equally easy to make, as the intensity and freshness of the ingredients  necessitated minimal cooking time.

oh, and: eating pork chops fresh off of the grill is my new raison d’être.

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the first stages of grilling (plus shot of  my new beloved rachel comey sandals, natch). you can really see how verdant the (slightly bastardized) chimichurri sauce is. it was so simple to make: 3 cups of cilantro, packed (including stems) + 3 cloves garlic + the juice of 3 limes + salt + black pepper + cayenne pepper. gave that a few pulses and drizzed in about 3 tsp good olive oil until the sauce formed. the milky-green marinade had a consistency of a semi-runny pesto and smelled FANTASTIC. don’t be put off by how acidic the marinade tastes raw. that’s how you know you did it right. the chimichurri flavors really mellow out on the grill, and the pork can stand up to the acids like the trooper it is.

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when the asparagus came off of the grill, the butter and natural sugar in the stalks had caramelized to delicious effect. after only a few minutes, the char from the grill created unspeakably succulent flavor & they weren’t overdone at all. salt and black pepper was all these little guys needed. we chomped on these as an appetizer while the rest of the food finished.

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check out those (haphazardly placed) grill marks! this little grill gets realllllly hot so everything was cooked entirely on the perimeters of the bbq. these were probably on the grill for 15-18 minutes, or until the internal registers at about 160 degrees.

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i remembered to take a photo of my plate when i was halfway done eating, oops. i just have to stress how unbelievably juicy the chops stay. pork chops have a tendency to dry out in the oven or on your skillet, but this created an awesomely juicy center and crispy, charred crust. highly recommended.

as for the swiss chard, i sliced it into supple ribbons and threw it in a very hot iron skillet with 1 red onion, diced. i left the ribs of the chard in – their shockingly magenta color and crunchy texture make them just as appealing as their leafy counterparts. after a few minutes of high heat stirring, i dumped in about 2 heaping tbsps of apple cider vinegar, a generous pinch of red pepper flakes, and lots of freshly cracked salt and pepper. i let it cook down (another 5 minutes or so) and then stirred in 3 cloves of finely chopped garlic. so healthy it hurts.

the pesto was homemade from garden trimmings and frozen over the winter. after a simply dethawing, we threw in 1 lb of rotini pasta and combined when done.

and that’s it! probably the most perfect summer dinner, ever — especially when enjoyed with a chilled, very good bottle of chardonnay from penguin bay from an earlier weekend excursion. eaten on a blanket in the grass outside admist the catepillars and 2 very energetic retrievers made for a pleasant evening indeed.

almost everything under the sun

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even though i always look forward to the hearty stews and roasts of winter i think there’s nothing better than spring and summer cooking – light and fresh and ingredient-oriented, but still substantial and of course delicious. i pan fried chicken breasts with olive oil, oregano, lemon and lots of black and pepper. i added 1 minced shallot and 1/2 bunch of asparagus, chopped into tiny, cylindrical bites. the asparagus was so fresh it also tasted divine raw. i finished with a few cloves of garlic, red pepper flakes, a final squeeze of lemon, and 1/4 cup grated parmesan. the key is to not overcook the asparagus but rather fry it at a high temperature to caramelize the flavor. the roast is simply a few baby red potatoes and 1 zucchini, diced largely, tossed with lemon juice, olive oil & herbs de provance. 30 minutes in a 400 degree oven, and i had a plateful of paradise. so light yet hearty – the perfect spring meal.