AFTERNOON TACOS

I may not work at Le Pick Up anymore, but I’m totally one of those annoying regulars that plops down at the best seat at the bar and then hangs out for hours. Literally, hours. I like to chill there all afternoon on my days off, eating potato chips and drinking ginger ale. Like any good diner or burger joint, Depanneur Le Pick Up has a killer secret menu. A tip from me to you: Both their famous pulled porc and the grilled halloum sandwich taste even more delicious as a trio of petite tacos. It’s really a great late afternoon lunch.

LUNCHING LAWRENCE

Because I work every dinner service at Lawrence, my only opportunity to actually enjoy our food (as a client)is during lunch. Luckily, a lot of the goodies that we offer at dinner — like potted rabbit, pickled smelt, grilled ox tongue, and, of course, our desserts! — are available on our lunch menu, too. (And so much more affordable!)

The other day I stopped in with a friend and we went nuts over the menu: golden shallots with fresh goat’s curd; baked borlotti beans with chewy bacon and horseradish cream; creamy, gooey celery gratin (it’s so good, it reminds me of cheese pizza); our famous housemade charcuterie and pickles… it was a feast. All it was missing was a few bottles of wine.

SCENES FROM HOME

Glimpses into my room…

Crucial Frank Ocean / Gary Numan shrine.

Even more crucial Scott Walker shrine, he guards my room.

My mom made this beautiful pink quilt for me years and years ago. (My favorite color). It’s even brighter in real life. I love how it looks with my (much more muted) APC quilt.

A small slice of my tape collection.

A beautiful painting from my friend Andrew Paine (they’re so striking in real life), and my favorite Kate Bush photo ever, torn from a magazine, I don’t know where.

Bright colors, unwieldy shapes, patterns upon patterns, inevitable clutter… my home environment is a pretty good reflection of my wardrobe aesthetic too. Consistency!

FAIL SAFE

Whenever I feel totally uninspired by cooking and the contents of my refrigerator, I reach for a few fail-safe tricks. Like: Boiling a pot of beans with an onion and some bay. Simmering a quick tomato sauce and adding dried pasta. A scoop of miso dissolved in some vegetable broth.

One of my all-time, fool-proof favorites: Roasting whatever I have around in the oven at high heat until dark, caramelized, and fragrant. I like to cut everything into similar sized pieces — here, I used a head of broccoli, a few wilting brussels sprouts, and a few cloves of peeled garlic — and coat with olive oil, lemon zest, aleppo pepper, and lemon juice. Simple. Twenty minutes later, fresh out of the oven, charred and crispy, I deglazed the pan with a little white wine and some starchy pasta water, just enough to make a light sauce. If none of that inspires you? Delivery pizza is totally a legit alternative.

SEEKING SPANISH TITLES

I love Spanish food, but I just don’t cook its cuisine at home very often. So I was extra excited to help organize a Spanish-themed potluck — I contributed David Tanis’ hearty and elegant Spanish tortilla, pan con tomate, and patatas bravas (all the starchy, carb-y offerings, haha!) — because everyone seriously turned on their A-game. There was aged chorizo made from scratch and fried with apple cider vinegar… a wide pan brimming with a seafood paella… a vegetal black chickpea stew… and Spanish cheeses, nuts, and fruits from Seville. It was a feast! But now I’m left adrift: what now? I realized I have no cookbooks devoted to the region, and I have a feeling I have so much left to learn. Can anyone suggest a good place to start? Any suggestions would be awesome!

RETURNING, AND SOME MUSSELS

When I first started working at Lawrence, I thought for sure that I would be able to make time for both work and writing. That between the long days making anglaise, puff pastry, bread, custards, and caramel, I would still feel stoked to write in this blog (or anywhere else!). Six months later, I’ve accepted the struggles that I’ve encountered when searching for energy and inspiration to ever visit this space, especially when the one thing that I blog about the most — cooking! — I simply don’t do much anymore. (I mean really: you don’t want to hear about endless breakfasts of avocado toast, lentil mush, and late-night popcorn). So one of the things that I thought about over the holidays was how to make this space feel engaging and special to me again. Because I’d really like it to be! And already: relaxing in this space again feels comforting and cozy.

These photos aren’t that recent, but hopefully still worth sharing. I’ve written about the beauty of steamed mussels before (my recipe can be found here). They’re one of my favorite dishes to make for friends because they’re awesomely cheap, easy, and healthy. And right now, they’re in season. I also added an obscene amount of chopped herbs (I used a mix of fresh dill, fennel fronds, parsley, basil, mint, and tarragon), pastis, and my secret ingredient — a tiny dice of raw celery. The steam relaxes the celery slightly and gives the dish a miraculous lift and lightness. We ate big bowls of brothy mussels with crisp duck fat-fried potatoes, a shaved fennel salad, and golden garlic toasts — made with my own bread! (A smuggled-home stump of Lawrence sourdough).

So here’s to more parties… and garlic toast… and brothy healthfulness… and finding time to spend in spaces that you love…. even if all you make six days of the week is avocado toast and lentil mush.

CHRISTMAS PUDDING

I probably should have posted this earlier in the week, but tonight is the last night that you can order our one-year-aged (!) Christmas pudding at Lawrence. The pudding has a special place in my heart because it’s one of the first things I learned how to make when I first came to the restaurant. This iconic English pudding is creamy, dense, sticky and super flavorful — it’s packed with all kinds of dried fruit, citrus peel, beef suet, clarified butter, breadcrumbs, brandy, spices, and so much else. As a final flourish, we serve it with heavy cream, brandy butter, and then light the whole thing on fire. It’s so dramatic and old school!

To double up on the holiday spirit, we’re also serving whole roast goose with all the trimmings. It’s gorgeous. We’re fully in the spirit!

[Photo by Martin Chamberland. For the full recipe, visit La Presse for their article on our pudding!]

HOLIDAY GIVING + GETTING

Everyone’s doing a gift guide, so why not join in? Here, lots of ideas for the awesome babe in your life….

+For cat lovers only.

+An educational skirt.

+I already own two of Debbie Carlos’ insane halftone-printed posters, but this one — of jellyfish! — is my new favorite.

+Silk blouses at Steven Alan. (Sale this weekend, too!)

+This French press makes me want to throw mine out.

+Chez Panisse Menus — inspiration to flip through.

+A rainbow of lockets. (I’d put in tiny photos of pizza.)

+Pretty sure we can all agree that having the complete DVD set of one of the best TV shows of all time would make a sweet present.

+Everyone is wearing vintage Coach right now! Why not join in?

+You need a calendar for the new year. Both of these are so beautiful.

+A thick stack of records from Phonopolis. A nice end of year list from 2012 to inspire your purchases, here. (Some of my favorite albums this year were hip-hop: I’d go with a themed collection including Kendrick Lamar, Death Grips, Killer Mike, and Frank Ocean.)

+Stocking stuffers to make you thirsty.

+Super beautiful and graphic tableware.

+Now THAT’S a dress! That color could inspire poetry. Oh Sonia, you never get it wrong.

+A practical tote for lugging your stuff to work.

+Less practical, but pure awesome, and so cuddly.

+Classic sneakers that everyone should own.

+A spendy item, but these are stunning shades.

+Advance tickets to see Heart play the Bell Centre in March. Because you think ahead.

+A set of David Tanis’ two remarkable cookbooks. We own both and they are indispensable.

+An Amtrak gift card, for spontaneous weekend trips.

+A copper pot for making perfect jam. (A girl can dream, right?)

PAN CON TOMATE MORNINGS

Pan con tomate is my latest favorite breakfast (i.e., it has temporarily replaced avocado toast). It’s delicious and fast. I halve a big chunk of baguette (right now I love with the tender kamut specimens at Joe la Croûte) and drizzle it with lots of good olive oil, then lightly toast in the oven until golden. While it’s still hot, I rub the toasts with peeled and cut garlic cloves and then quickly grate a halved tomato on a box grater, until pink, thickly covered, and wet. I imagine that this would be a million times better in the summer, when tomatoes are plump and bursting with sweet flavor, but it’s still so, so good. Finish with lots of salt, pepper, and, in some mornings, a filet or two or anchovy. Yum! Perfect accompaniment with a poached egg, wilted greens, and some coffee. Does anyone else make this for breakfast?

THANKSGIVING FEASTS: THE FINALE

Thanksgiving feast #3: perhaps the most spectacular of them all. So spectacular, in fact, that I completely neglected to take any photos of the delicious, abundant spread, which included pale pink mashed potatoes, roasted romanesco cauliflower, seared brussels sprouts, a faintly sweet, crunchy stuffing made with dried cherries, pecans, and cranberries, and massive magnums of wine provided by two of the most knowledgeable wine folks in the city, Theo and Etheylia. Naturally, you’d never expect anything less from a culinary duo as capable and passionate as Michelle and Anthony. I did remember to whip out my camera at the start of the awe-inspiring dessert course, when Michelle modestly unveiled a perfect pumpkin pie and a moist, boozy bourbon-drenched pound cake. Adam swooned, then asked for a thick slice to take home with him. They complied, of course — Thanksgiving is all about generosity, and these two are the very embodiment of perfect home entertaining.