Category Archives: winter

HOT POT ADDICTION

In the dead of winter, traditional Chinese hot pot might be the perfect remedy. My thought process of the last month: Quick! Before winter ends… and it’s going to end soon… You have one final thing to accomplish. A hot pot feast at home!

I adore everything about hot pot. Thinly sliced meats — like beef, lamb, chicken — perched delicately in a mesh wire basket, are lowered into a bubbling cauldron dotted with floating mushrooms, a tangle of rice noodles, cubes of tofu, and a mysterious thicket of vegetables. As the meat simmers to doneness, the fixings, like a big spoonful of spicy, rich sesame sauce, are arranged in a tiny bowl, alongside a few wedges of crisp Chung Yao Bing, or a savory scallion pancake. As the night crawls forward, the broth gets thicker, meatier, richer, condensed with the dazed memories of the meats and the seafood that entered and exited its steamy world.

My fondness for hot pot has been documented on this site before. There’s that time I had it in Hong Kong, which was pretty mind-blowing. But organizing a hot pot feast at home  — as I did once in California — is not even that hard, and maybe even more fun than going out. So for my friend Karine’s birthday, I knew right away that I wanted to throw her a party that we’d all remember forever.

The day of the dinner, we drove down to Chinatown and scooped up all of the ingredients for a proper hot pot experience. As for prep, that’s about it. The night of the party, it’s an every-man-or-woman-for-himself kind of situation. You make the food as you crave it, gulp it down as soon as it’s ready, and don’t stop until you’re about stuffed, practically hallucinating with pleasure, peering through the steamy room that feels as hot as a sauna.

It’s the best way to say zàijiàn to winter.

WINTER COPING

Everyone knows how fiercely, bitterly cold the Montreal winters are, but most people are surprised to learn that day-to-day life here often consists of clear azure skies and bright, crystalline sunlight. It has been this aspect of Quebec weather that has made life more bearable here in the depressing winter months. The sun may get up late, but when it appears in our skies, it burns with a fierce purity that I have really come to appreciate. I like preparing breakfast or lunch in my sunny, cheerful kitchen, which gets drenched with sunbeams and warm light in the middle of the day. I’ve been making a lot of punchy, fresh tomato sauces, drinking lots of orange juice, and sitting in the sun like a cat. Definitely beats the winter blues.

VEGAN SECRET SUPPER

I’m thrilled to announce that the Dep’s first guest chef dinner of 2012 will feature the talented Brooklyn-based crew behind Vegan Secret Supper. I have to admit that I don’t know much about vegan cooking, so this is a particularly exciting event for me (I’m especially excited to see what Chef Merida has up her sleeve in the dessert and pastry realm!) Full details for the event can be found here; I only have a few spots left, so email me if you’d like to save your seat, because they are filling up crazy fast!

[All mouthwatering - and vegan! - photos courtesy of Vegan Sunday Supper tumblr]

CLIMBING THE PEAK

 

If you can endure the crush of people and long waits to board the Peak Tram — a tiny cable car that scales to the top of a Victoria Peak , Hong Kong’s highest point — then a midday trip up into the sky is a rad way to spend a few hours. Sadly, the smog situation is really depressing here, with a lavender haze and murk cast like a blanket over the city skyline. It was a relief to break away from the crowds and walk down the tree-lined paths that wind around the mountain, which were weirdly deserted the day we were there.

Pied de Cochon’s Cabane à Sucre in Serious Eats

My first byline in Serious Eats appeared earlier this week! I wrote about my very first experience at a Cabane à Sucre, at the infamous Au Pied de Cochon outpost. It was one of the most fun meals I’ve ever had in my life, and a truly unique — and delicious — experience. (Where else would you be able to punctuate a world-class four-hour meal with a snowy, romantic hike through the woods?) I was beyond honored to cover it for the venerable Serious Eats, a site I have read religiously for years now. I was particularly happy with the photos — I was fortunate enough to borrow a fancy DSLR camera for the meal — but now I’m scheming to find a way to buy one of my own. (Cue this number).

Read the full story here!

SOUPE AUX POIS, MY WAY

I recently attempted to make a Quebec soupe aux pois, a hearty winter soup made with yellow peas and pork. I had a small bag of pork shoulder bones, leftover from a dinner party, that I was dying to use in a bean-based soup.

The yellow peas (soaked overnight) simmered in water with the pork bones until tender. I shredded the remaining pork into the broth, threw away the bones, and added carrots, celery, and onion, as well as plenty of hot pepper, cracked black pepper, a few bay leaves, chopped garlic, and some garam masala and tumeric (clearly this was not an authentic soupe aux pois). I pureed half the soup, and left the other soup intact, for a nice chunky texture. Huge bowls, sprinkled with cilantro and drizzled with olive oil, were the perfect accompaniment to my new favorite movie, Fletch. Now that is a very good movie!

HEART TO HEART

I hate how Valentine’s Day is marketed at this thing that exists solely to make women happy. The man is somehow supposed to make all of these magical, expensive gestures, but it always is about somehow placating the woman with cliche stuff* or empty stock phrases. Why isn’t it more about honoring the relationship?

I’ve always thought that if you were going to celebrate Valentine’s Day, then it should honor both people, equally. I’m not a big fan of going to restaurants on Feb. 14, or really any overt display of the ‘holiday’ (lucky for me, last year I avoided the holiday altogether by exclusively celebrating Chinese New Year, which happened to fall on the same day). (An important exception: the massive amounts of awesomely kitsch Valentine’s-oriented baking I’ve been doing here).

So it makes sense that I love the idea of cooking with your partner. This dinner is romantic, easy, and, most importantly, delicious. Recently I had an extremely intense craving for crispy, lemony German veal schnitzel I ate once in Berlin, so I tried, as best I could, to recreate that meal from memory.

I pounded two veal cutlets to even thinness, sprinkled with salt and pepper, coated with an egg wash (mixed with buttermilk), and then dipped in panko. The cutlets went into an extremely hot non-stick pan with a few tablespoons of canola oil and fried until crispy. As they drained on paper towels, the schnitzel got another round of salt and a flurry of chopped parsley.

I parboiled a handful of waxy potatoes, sliced into medallions, and then fried them in a hot skillet with butter, one chopped onion, sliced mushrooms, and garlic, until crispy and golden and irresistible. I tossed in a huge handful of slivered scallions, something that I saw all over traditional German food in Berlin, and sauteed until just fragrant.

Finally, I stirred up a pot of wilted Savoy cabbage, bacon, shallot, red wine vinegar, a pinch of sugar and plenty of salt. Extremely crucial that the schnitzel be served with lemon wedges, extra parsley, and a cushion of slightly wilted arugula. All minor flourishes that make all the difference. Isn’t it satisfying when spontaneous cravings are satiated so completely?

*If you must give presents, I recommend a few well-picked records. In past years, I’ve received records by people like Kate Bush and Erik Satie, and don’t underestimate the power of a nice mix. There are a few magnificent records that are out on Valentine’s Day, too: Tim Hecker and PJ Harvey. Both are the best.

KIND OF CONSOMME

Last week I battled a brutal cold and sore throat. For days, I could barely muster enough energy to make a piece of toast, or a mug of a tea. Because it seems like everyone else I know is getting sick, too, I’d like to say that I firmly believe that this chicken consomme is what cured me. Kat and Jennifer, this one is for you.

Around 9am, I woke up with a blinding headache and a near inability to swallow. My boyfriend convinced me that chicken noodle soup would bring me back to life, so I stumbled to the kitchen, threw the bones from a roast chicken that I had saved, and I added whatever I could find in the refrigerator (diced carrots, baby leeks, a bundle of parsley, a quartered onion, whole garlic gloves, a knob of ginger), and a few things from the pantry (a pinch of black peppercorns, dried thyme, dried chili pepper, and bay leaf). I added three liters of water, and brought to a boil. Though I didn’t have an appetite at the time, by the time the simmering broth was done four hours later, I was finally ready for some soup.

I strained the broth three times to get a golden, clear liquid (not exactly a consomme, I realize, but the closest approximation I will arrive at while severely sick), and returned the chicken stock to the pot. I added one can of black beans, a teaspoon of cumin, more chili flakes, and a handful of orecchiette. The best touches came at the end: a handful of diced scallions, cilantro, more chili pepper, and a squeeze of lime. The soup was very light, yet rich in flavor; the spicy heat cleared up my stuffy nose, and the black beans gave me enough energy for the rest of the afternoon. 

SERIOUSLY SALTIMBOCCA

Adam recently had the brilliant idea to make saltimbocca, a delicious Italian dish of veal cutlets fried with sage and prosciutto. I don’t usually like fussy dishes, but I have to admit that this meal was very fun to assemble — it felt like I was stitching our meal together. It’s not so much about following a recipe (though this recipe seems to be quite similar) as it is just getting the vibe right: paper-thin veal cutlets are carefully threaded with sage leaves and prosciutto, dusted with salt and pepper, and then dredged in a bit of flour. We fried our saltimbocca in a skillet filled with hot, frothing butter, and fried them until crispy.

I served the veal with a simple butternut squash + brown butter risotto, and Adam fried up some mushrooms and made my favorite cabbage dish (his specialty): sauteed cabbage with bacon and lemon. Simple, but blows my mind every time. I eat platefuls of this stuff and never get tired of it.

[Oh, and over at Popcorn Youth: a stunning Trish Keenan mix — RIP — and a link to my latest piece for Signal to Noise].

COLOR COORDINATION

Dinner. I love how everything is the same shade of pale, pale yellow — the butter, the toast, the sole, the artichokes, the bowl of lemons, the wine, the half wheel of Brie. Unintentional monochromatic coordination.

I had been curious for quite some time about Richard Olney’s dish of persillade of sole and shredded artichokes, dressed heavily in lemon and minced parsley, from his volume French Wine and Food (Ten Vineyard Lunches). We unintentionally went a little bit overboard with the lemon — I can never quite control myself with citrus — but otherwise it is a perfectly manageable and delicate dish.

[Oh! Final note: One of my bestest friends, Kat Stone, recently has started a mouthwatering food blog, kat.tales. Not only is she a phenomenal writer, but an inspirational cook. Check it out!]