Category Archives: snack

SUMMER SNACKING

I recently splurged on a big bundle of white asparagus at the Jean Talon market. (I did the math — almost $1 per spear!) The spears, fat, pearlescent, and tipped with faint lavender and the palest green, were so beautiful. They glowed. I couldn’t resist. White asparagus, which is much more delicate-tasting than its above-ground green counterparts, doesn’t like to be roasted. It turns them an unappealing muddy color and makes them bitter. So I kept it extremely simple and steamed the trimmed, peeled spears for four minutes, and served them warm with good French ham. The perfect early summer snack, and finger food, too!

CHALLENGING FOODS

Have you ever had natto?

The stuff must be pictured under the dictionary entry for “acquired taste.” It is probably also pictured under the dictionary entry for “slimy.”

If you eat it, how do you make it taste good? And can you convince me to like it? Help!

NOODLE TIME

Growing up in San Diego, I regularly ate steaming bowls of yun tun mian for lunch at the cheap Chinese restaurants scattered throughout University City or Convoy (which resulted in my super-pro shoveling technique as seen above). In Hong Kong, the tiny, delicate “wontons” are stuffed with hefty chunks of shrimp, suspended in a rich noodle-dense soup. All of the magic, of course, resides in the broth, which is enriched with pork bones, scallions, and dried shrimps. Interestingly, the dish’s provenance is northern Chinese (hence my familiarity with it growing up), but it’s become very popular with Cantonese Hong Kong residents, who have adopted the dish to suit their own Southern tastes. I’ve noticed this with so much northern or Sichuan dishes — Hong Kong folk love to take regional cuisine and put a weird hybridic Cantonese spin on it. Just fantastic.

SOUP’S STILL ON

There’s nothing quite like being fussed over on your birthday. So it was extra wonderful to wake up to a perfect breakfast of smoked salmon omelet, toast, and cheese on the morning of my birthday. It was so nice outside that day — probably the last terrace breakfast of the year.

I’ve been so lax about posting recipes lately, but I wanted to share my favorite vegetable soup recipe. This soup can be customized to support whatever vegetables happen to be in your refrigerator, reheats really well, and is very amenable to ingredient additions throughout the week (on day two, I think I added a handful of penne and some roasted red peppers into the pot).

Simple Vegetable Soup

[Notes: I think fresh cannellini beans are out of the market at this point — I know, so sad — but I like to buy a surplus during the summer, and then keep small jars of the fresh ones frozen in the freezer. Canned or dried would be adequate, but nothing quite beats the freshness or creamy texture of the just-shelled variety. Also, I like to exclusively use my own chicken stock. I know exactly what's in it, and that makes me feel good. In my mind, I can always taste the cardboard of the boxed variety. I consider it worth the effort to always have a few litres of frozen stock ready for a soup or a risotto. And about those tomatoes: I leave the skins and seeds in because this soup is so rustic; if you're a bit more detailed-oriented feel free to peel and de-seed! But in my mind, this is the kind of soup that you don't think about. Chop things roughly, in weird sizes, throw it in the pot, stir when you feel like it. Don't think too much about it. Pretty much every ingredient here is interchangeable, and the end product will still be delicious, nourishing, and not too precious.]

1 celery stalk, diced finely
1 carrot, diced finely
2 shallots, diced finely
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup cannellini beans
3-5 small new potatoes, in a big dice
2 tomatoes, diced
5-7 cups chicken stock
1 t smoked paprika
1 t cumin
1 t red chili pepper flakes
2 sprigs thyme (leave on the branch, just pluck it out when the soup is ready)
2 bay leaves
juice of 1/2 lemon
3 cups packed baby spinach, rinsed
salt, pepper

—In a large, enamel-coated cast iron pot over low-medium heat, add 2 T of olive oil and 2 T of butter. When sizzling, add shallots, carrot, and celery and stir to coat. Cook 10 minutes, or until softened but not browned.
—Add potatoes, and stir to soften slightly, 5 minutes.
—Add cannellini beans, garlic, spices, and herbs. Stir heartily. Oh, and salt and pepper, too.
—Add tomatoes and chicken stock, bring to a boil, and immediately reduce to low simmer.
—Let simmer gently, with the lid off, for 30 minutes, or until beans and potatoes are just tender. Add water or more stock if needed.
—Turn off heat, and add the spinach. Stir to wilt.
—Serve immediately with a big squirt of lemon juice, and alongside crusty brown bread and sharp cheddar.

MORE EQUATIONS

Scallops + coral + parsley oil + garlic // heaven

Farfalle + brown lentils + minced carrot, red onion, garlic, parsley, bell pepper + lemon + splash of pasta water // (Big) 20 minute lunch

Beef tenderloin + peppers + onions + avocado + refried beans + lime over all + crackling pita // 20 minute TV dinner (hockey of course)

Beef stock + tomato paste + lentils + chipotles in adobo + potatoes + zucchini + cilantro // A very spicy, smoky soup

Fregola + fresh favas + mint + anchovy + capers (they are the same size exactly as fregola! Such a satisfying mouthfeel) + hot peppers + crispy artichokes + scallions // Sticky, chewy pasta (the best ever)

Cubed potatoes + shallot + lard + rosemary + smoked paprika // A quick snack that turned into lunch. (I always fry parboiled potatoes in a cast-iron skillet; the  crust is unbeatable, and the bits of shallot get super-crispy and charred).

RHUBARBE: A BAKER’S JEALOUSY

Now that I’ve finally made it over to Patisserie Rhubarbe, I really wish that I hadn’t waited so long! The original recommendation came from my friend and La Presse writer Ève Dumas, who I met there for a late afternoon coffee. (Fortunately, they have Union coffee! Yum).

It was a struggle to not order all of the immaculate, elegant, and affordable sweets — the place reminded me of a teetotaling version of Pix — but with some guidance from Ève, a Rhubarbe regular, I ordered the peanut brittle, a lemon tart, cheesecake, a citrus-brownie, homemade chocolate with nougat (like a super fancy Snickers bar), and passion fruit marshmallows. They also had an alluring shelf of jams and preserves by Anthony and Camilla, as well as their own house-made preserves (and some truly gorgeous pound cakes and breads that I would have loved to eat for breakfast), but I had to exercise a wee modicum of restraint.

As the baker at Le Pick Up, I know that our goods will never have the elegance or beauty that Rhubarbe does. It’s just not our style. But there’s also something comforting and kind of amazing about knowing that the aesthetics of deliciousness exists on a wide spectrum, from messy to humble to simple to sleek — and it’s all equally valid. There is something very special happening at Rhubarbe — now if only they could pull a Pix and add Cava to their menu!

FINISH LINE

For the first time in a long time — longer than I’d like to admit — I went to the gym.

I used to be addicted to the gym, addicted to sports, addicted to exercise. Three hours at the gym was nothing; skipping a day’s worth of exercise was unthinkable. But over the years, exercise became more and more sporadic, until I eliminated it completely from my life. If you were a college athlete, then you know how hard it is to transition from 25 hours of exercise a week to only 4. Psychologically, it’s almost impossible, and I opted for (my) path of least resistance: complete bodily stasis.

I found ways to incorporate movement in a more natural way (biking for hours every day; going on long walks; sporadic yoga; pick-up sports with friends; trips skiing). But it’s clear that if I’d like to keep eating this, this, or this, joining a gym is really a crucial imperative. (Wine critic Robert Parker once said that the “only” reason why he exercises is so he can “eat whatever he wants.” Too true).

So I woke up at 8am, went to the gym, ran a few miles, and felt great. Then I hopped on the dreaded ergometer, and tried my very hardest to hold a 2:20 steady state for 30 minutes (for those of you that are rowers, or have been rowers, you know this is deeply pathetic). I finished with a power 10, and was sure that I was going to barf all over myself. (I didn’t). So I stretched, felt great, bought a coffee and a mango, and went home. And didn’t eat breakfast. Or anything at all. And — shocker — had a head-splitting migraine for the rest of the day.

So many mistakes were made! But the biggest, we can agree, is not eating the proper refuel meal directly after the gym. What was I thinking?

I wish I had prepared this lunch that I made recently. It would have been the perfect post-gym meal. It’s a simple cannellini bean and mushroom ragu, made with tomato paste, bacon, onions, bell peppers, thyme, and red pepper flakes, and thickened with butter and some starchy pasta water. Tossed with fresh pasta, a few cups of arugula, and plenty of lemon juice and Pecorino to finish, it was delicious, filling, healthy, and packed with protein and carbs.

But I also don’t want to waste precious post-workout minutes trying frantically to assemble a healthy lunch. This would have been even easier, and just as filling: a simple four-egg omelet (divided between two), with a potato-leek and broccoli rabe hash (all creatively reinterpreted leftovers), and toasted baguette with Brie. Comforting, cozy and super satisfying, and would have prevented the crazy day-long headache I suffered.

I’m pretty sure I forgot all of the nutrition knowledge I picked up during my years spent as a rower at Cornell, but I think this would be an acceptable post-workout snack, for those of you that prefer to exercise in the afternoon or evenings. I made a quick tabbouleh, or parsley salad (bulghur wheat, diced cucumbers, diced red onion, lemon juice, and minced parsley), and ate that with torn pita and a rough white bean dip, made with soaked cannellini beans that I boiled until just fork tender. The beans are then sauteed with thyme, red onion, olive oil and garlic, and mashed up with a wooden spoon (I added a few tablespoons of homemade chicken broth so it wouldn’t get too dried out). Perfect snack for any circumstance, really.

UMOJA’S

I still get a rush out of buying fresh produce in January, especially when I make my annual Sunday visit to the La Jolla Farmers Market — at my most recent visit, I bought bags of local avocados, guavas, oranges, golden beets, purple kale, and some potted succulents. But the tastiest corner of the market might be Umoja Vegan Galore, sort of what I imagine the Ethiopian version of Macro Mama’s to be. I always bring home a hefty carton of collard greens and black eyed peas (fried in avocado oil) and crunchy knobs of okra (miraculously never, ever slimy).

Really trying to make the most of my final moments in Southern California, including another trip to Chino’s Farm, knowing in the back of my mind that once back in Montreal, fresh baby lettuces will be no more than a distant fond memory. Sigh.

PS. Finally watched Deliverance for the first time. HI, TERRIFYING MOVIE.

ALL TOGETHER NOW

[Dinner: Cucumber + arugula + Belgian dive + bacon + homemade garlic rye croutons of very stale yet delicious bread from Barney Greengrass + mustard vinaigrette]

[Snack: Skillet cornbread, adapted heavily from the Lee Brothers — I added spicy peppers, shredded sharp cheddar, and bacon]

[Breakfast: Empire apples (the best, best kind) and cranberry + dark chocolate blondies. Maybe a bit too sweet, but the perfect texture for an espresso]

[Dinner: Beet sauce pasta! Adam's impromptu hockey night creation, but given my extremely vocal love of beets I like to think that I was the inspiration for this dish. Ground beef + onions saute with lemon, olive oil + a bit of cream. Add roasted cube beets to pan to infuse cream with the most luscious, vibrant hue of magenta that you have ever seen. Coats penne brilliantly, is shiny + full of color. Delicious too.]

[Breakfast again. Sometimes all you really want is tea + freshly squeezed orange juice + toast + butter.]

[More breakfast, more orange juice. This time supplemented with my favorite of snacks — toasted whole wheat bread slathered with avocado, butter, and a lot of salt and pepper.]

I feel inspired by Sasha’s recent chronological look at her meals. I really admire the variety + bounty + simplicity of her breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. This post is a bit more piecemeal but equally valid look into my (often) random eating habits.

COASTAL TRIP

I can’t believe summer is almost over. For roughly two full weeks I had the most intense craving for fish and chips. So, I drove out to Cannon Beach for some halibut. Normal. We made a beeline for Ecola Seafoods and picked up a shameful amount of seafaring snacks — besides the requisite fried halibut and chips — which included smoked mussels, lump crab meat, pickled herring, smoked BBQ salmon, and a few pounds of fresh salmon to take home. We brought our own rose and I was tipsy by 4pm, wandering the streets of Cannon Beach and impulse buying Haystack bread and Haystack chocolates, and then finally catching a glimpse of the actual Haystack Rock. Perfect summer afternoon.