Category Archives: people

GETTING JERKY

I posted about this magical night — the Dep’s first tropical staycation — a while back, and I want to share these other photos, too. Our chef Jeremy was in charge of the main course (spicy jerk chicken, coconut rice and black beans, stewed kale, and a tropical cabbage slaw), and successfully left many, many people frozen in their food comas.

I was in charge of the rest of the dinner, which included my own “Le Pick Up Beer Nuts” (still not quite sure what “beer nuts” actually are), which were delicious but incredibly time intensive (I had to deep-fry 10lbs of raw peanuts in very small batches… boring and tedious work!). After they came out of the pot, warm and golden brown, I tossed them with a mixture of brown sugar, salt, black pepper, ground allspice, cinnamon, ground ginger, deep-fried garlic chips, fish sauce, soy sauce, lime juice + its zest, and scotch bonnet hot sauce, and added and added salt until they were perfect. It was the ultimate blend of sweet, spicy, and salty —otherwise known as the holy trifecta of flavor — and a perfect complement to ice-cold Red Stripes and dark ‘n’ stormies.

I was also in charge of the dessert course: a very dense, rich chocolate-rum-coffee cake, topped with a rum-infused whipped cream and a minty passion fruit and mango relish. The night was so fun (it ended with me teaching people how to do the Macarena?!) that I hope this becomes an annual Le Pick Up tradition.

DRESSED DOWN

One of my classiest outfits still renders me the most casually dressed person at last night’s Montreal en Lumiere dinner. Ah, Montreal. How you consistently out-fancy me.

GAZETTE BLOGGING: MONTRÉAL EN LUMIÈRE

Just a quick announcement to say that I have been blogging the Montréal en Lumière festival for the Montreal Gazette! Meeting all the Seattle chefs and Oregon state winemakers has made me miss the Pacific Northwest like something crazy. Posts thus far:

Chatting with Seattle chef Matthew Dillon

Crazy good eating with Matthew Dillon

Gala night with Seattle chef Jason Wilson and Long Shadow wines

And so many more in the pipe! Follow along here.

AT HOME WITH SASH

Since my Acquired Taste story about Sasha isn’t available online, I thought I would post some of the photos I took when I visited her last summer. I have so many, I kind of want to share them all.

It was really humid that day, the kind where staying inside is almost unbearable. Being in a hot kitchen, even worse. Typical upstate New York summer, it rained on and off all afternoon, but we took every opportunity to escape outside to her backyard for wine or to go on walks.

I love writing about my best friends. It’s happening more and more, almost emerging as a pattern, which made me realize how fascinating and talented and smart my loved ones really are. I’ve long admired Sasha’s intuitive and thoughtful cooking style, yet I had never really watched her “in action.” (Whenever I would arrive at her house for dinner parties, everything would already be ready to go!)

More photos to come….

COUNTRY WEEKEND

Sometimes you don’t know how badly you need to get out of the city until you have finally escaped to the country. And then you realize, I needed this. Seven years in Ithaca maybe transformed me into a country mouse, and I miss the wide open spaces of winter and snow. So we escaped into snow hikes, wood-fired pizza, birthday tarot card readings, intense full moon, chocolate cake, snow angels, baked eggs for breakfast, country-western music, and the most peaceful and sunny bedroom room I’ve ever stayed in. Thank you T + N for our country getaway!

STEVE GUNN + DOC DUNN THIS SATURDAY!

Hey Montreal friends!

I’m hosting a concert at Le Pick Up this Saturday, Feb. 11 with Brooklyn guitarist Steve Gunn and Toronto musician Doc Dunn. There’s a great video of Steve here, and it’s even a million times more magical live.

A word about Steve:

Brooklyn guitarist Steve Gunn’s prodigous talent for fusing traditional American song structures with a raga influence is almost criminally unheralded. Gunn’s songcraft is so strong and his playing style so effortlessly beautiful that folks should be shouting his name from every tall building and mountaintop. This native Philadelphian has been a stalwart of the American experimental scene for closing in on a decade. He is known by many for his contributions as one half of the core duo behind GHQ (with Marcia Bassett) as well as for his many other affiliations with underground luminaries such as Tom Carter, the Magik Markers and Marc Orleans.

And another word about Doc:

“Fresh out of the guitar soli school of William Eaton‘s soaking echo, Doc Dunn eschews in a new dawn of steel string reveries. As Dunn wades through the Takoma streams, he permeates the finger-picked tradition with standing waves of lysergic ether, free-basing his way into a tradition too bleak for the soft shores of the Rooted mind. Triplic layers of twang will melt their way through wires and speakers before their murky waters settle inside our distant (ear) drums.” — Weird Canada.

This is going to be a lovely, beautiful night, and I will be making appropriate concert snacks. Please join us! The show begins promptly at 9pm and is all ages.

 

VEGAN SECRET SUPPER!

The Vegan Secret Supper with Chef Merida at the Dep was such a blast. I’m the first to admit I don’t know much about vegan cooking (you can make cheese out of nuts???), so it was a delight to watch Merida work her magic.

And work it she did — we were treated to three elaborate, sumptuous courses, which included a oyster mushroom and leek risotto with crispy sunchoke chips, celeriac cream, and roasted parsnips; pan-fried yam and walnut croquette with a balsamic-beet reduction and coconut-cashew nut cheese over frisee; and my favorite, hazelnut-chocolate mousse pie with lavender-vanilla cashew cream (INSANELY good).

We’re bringing her back for an encore appearance this summer. I don’t think I’ve ever been so stoked for a vegan meal! (I’m also hoping for vegan ice cream).

YEAR OF THE WATER DRAGON

Chinese New Year has always been my favorite holiday. (Thanksgiving is a close second). When I was growing up, my parents would throw epic annual parties at our house that usually ended in drunken Chinese opera singing and gifts of money in tiny red envelopes. (How I treasured those envelopes!) Sometimes my mom would make dumplings from scratch, and everyone would rave at how delicious they were. She always kept it simple — just pork and minced chives. Our galas became so infamous that when I was in high school, my friends, begging for an invitation, would crash our house in droves of 5 and 10.

Last year, with the help of my friend Yung Chang, I hosted an unbelievable party where we made thousands of dumplings and did karaoke. Okay, the night was really, really, really epic. But this year, for the year of the water dragon, I almost didn’t throw a party. Yung was away on set for his latest film, and Adam was gone on another assignment. No celebration this year, I thought.

Unexpectedly, at the eleventh hour, I got inspired. I emailed a small but solid gang of friends, and bought a few bags of frozen (sorry, Mom) dumplings, some vegetables, and a gorgeous striped sea bass from Marche Oriental, and began to cook. The dinner was slightly more elaborate than defrosted dumplings and cold beer, but still simple, simple, simple. There was Chinese broccoli coated in black vinegar, dan dan noodles provided by Bartek, crispy fried noodles (all those noodles are excellent for longevity), a beautiful cabbage salad made by Katherine, and that tender sea bass, poached for four minutes in salted water and then coated in a luscious, aromatic sauce.

I’m a fan of the impromptu gathering, of the lower expectations and relaxed vibes. As a Libra, I will always love a big, out of control party, but I secretly prefer the chill zone of a small group and simple offerings. You know when you have a really good feeling about a year? I have a great feeling about 2012.

K, my favorite recipe for dumpling dunking sauce:

3 T smooth peanut butter

4-6 T reduced sodium soy sauce, to taste (add a few more shakes if your peanut butter is on the sweet side)

2-4 T rice vinegar (I also like the more intense black vinegar)

2-3 T finely minced ginger

2-3 T finely minced garlic

2-4 t sriracha or red chili paste (or even more if you’re feeling gutsy)

2 t sesame oil

2 t oyster sauce

big handful cilantro, finely chopped another big handful parsley, finely chopped

few stems scallions, chopped

the juice of a lime or lemon

salt and black pepper, to taste

Add all ingredients and stir until smooth. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. Let the flavors get to know one another. Use for dumpling dipping and serve with extra dishes of black vinegar and hot sauce.

Happy New Year!!!!!!

VEGAN SECRET SUPPER

I’m thrilled to announce that the Dep’s first guest chef dinner of 2012 will feature the talented Brooklyn-based crew behind Vegan Secret Supper. I have to admit that I don’t know much about vegan cooking, so this is a particularly exciting event for me (I’m especially excited to see what Chef Merida has up her sleeve in the dessert and pastry realm!) Full details for the event can be found here; I only have a few spots left, so email me if you’d like to save your seat, because they are filling up crazy fast!

[All mouthwatering - and vegan! - photos courtesy of Vegan Sunday Supper tumblr]

COOL FEAST 2011

COOL FEST XI is over and damn if it wasn’t a total and utter blast. When I started working on the menu for the fest’s culinary counterpart (aka COOL FEAST), I wanted it to be something personal, something that related to me in a genuinely intimate way. (I was inspired by Sasha’s thoughtful approach to the cooking-for-musicians conundrum). I focused on San Diego Mexican food, which is easy to make gluten-free (why is everyone gluten-free these days, anyway?), easy to make in advance, easy to make for huge groups of people, and easy on the wallet. Plus, tacos. Who doesn’t want a taco at a concert? Exactly.
I created a menu full of dishes that I know and love, food for which I barely need recipes. There was a spicy, smoky chipotle-infused ropa vieja (protip #1: flank steak is cheap and braises well!), tucked into warm corn tortillas from Maya with briny red onions and soft queso fresco. There was a succotash studded with creamy lima beans, kernels of corn, diced jalapenos and poblanos, and the bright, warm kiss of tomatoes.

I soaked rice for two days to make my famous homemade horchata, which has only three ingredients: raw rice, cinnamon sticks, and cold water. (Rick Bayless has a great recipe that also includes blanched almonds). With the help of a cheesecloth, anyone can make this sweet, milky nectar. (Protip #2: Add a shot of vodka to a cup for an instant Natasha-cocktail classic, the White Mexican, aka the cheaper cousin of the White Russian).
       One of my favorite Mexican snacks is a vegetable escabeche that I discovered through Lottie + Doof. I make this, no joke, all the time. It keeps for weeks in the fridge, is dirt cheap to make, and is spicy, crunchy, and thoroughly satisfying. My friend Xarah kept sneaking over to the pot to pluck out pieces of fennel and green beans, it was the cutest. The escabeche (usually a technique reserved for fish) reminds me exactly of the pickled onions and carrots at burrito shops in San Diego, except spicier and fried in oil. So, even better.
       What else? I stewed black beans in lard and epazote (protip #3: avoid dried epazote; the stuff tastes and smells like medicine. You’re better off with substituting dried Mexican oregano, or waiting for fresh epazote in the summer) and served it with smoked paprika-scented rice. On day two, I roasted a tray of petite cornish game hens, powdered with cumin and stuffed with garlic cloves and wedges of lime, and then doused the whole charred, juicy bird in a rich tomatillo salsa (protip #4: I always use canned tomatillos. Just so much easier). I also fried a huge pan of spicy chorizo, tossed some cubed potatoes in the sausage grease and a little butter, and blasted it in the oven until crispy and golden.
       These was a rich black bean soup, pureed to silkiness, and topped with a tangy cilantro-infused crema and deep-fried chips that I made with the stale tortillas from the night before (protip #5: sneak as many of these salted chips into your mouth prior to serving, or else you will be sorry. Very sorry).
       But my favorite thing, and really, it’s a soup I will be making quite a bit this winter, was the rich, spicy pork posole soup I made Friday night. Posole simmers in water for hours with a few chopped onions and garlic cloves while the pork (I used a combination of trotters, pork butt, and pork shank) boils in another pot of water. I added lots of other flavors to enrich the broth, including chipotles packed in adobo, dried Mexican oregano, garlic cloves, dried avocado leaves, bay leaves, smoked paprika, cumin, and ancho chiles.
       After a few hours, the pork is shredded and set aside, while the broth is strained and added to the pot of posole. I threw the pork back in, and let it simmer for a few more hours. By the way, this was the biggest pot of soup I have ever made. It was fun to stir it, like I was a witch and the soup was in my cauldron full of secrets. Posole: recommended for maximum witchy vibes.
       Adam pointed out that the best part of the soup, really, was the crunchy, fun toppings that were dumped on the soup and flash-cooked in the hot broth, sort of like a Mexican pho. Toppings included shredded cabbage dressed in vinegar, cilantro leaves, and sliced radishes, all of which became slightly supple when demi-poached in the porky broth. This is heartening soup, a soup that makes you feel good, makes you feel stronger, better, and happier.

FRIDAY
‘THE TACO’
Ropa vieja + pickled red onions + queso fresco
Stewed vegan succotash + slaw 
…AND MORE
Paprika-scented rice + creamy black beans 
Rojo pork posole + fixings
Spicy veggie escabeche
Homemade (vegan!) horchata

SATURDAY
‘THE ROAST’
Roasted cornish game hens + tomatillo sauce
Crispy roast potatoes + picante chorizo
…AND MORE
Red cabbage + lime vinaigrette + avocado
Black bean soup + cilantro-infused crema
Spicy veggie escabeche + roasted tomato salsa
Mexican hot chocolate

 


Guys, this was a rewarding weekend. I sold out of everything. EVERYTHING. Saturday night, people were still asking me for food, and I was rummaging through the pantry and fridge, trying to figure out if I could get away with serving the audience things like roasted potatoes in a bowl, doused in crema, salsa, and hot sauce. (I did get away with it).  At 10pm, people were still hungry, so I defrosted the rest of my pork posole from the following night and dished it out to relieved concertgoers, for $1 a pop.

And this report isn’t even getting into the tremendously awesome music (Man Made Hill, my favorite musical discovery of 2011), the wonderful and smart people, the genuine sense of community, friendship, and teamwork that I was a part of that weekend. What a way to end 2011.