Category Archives: people

R. STEVIE LIVE

An interview I did with musician R. Stevie Moore, as part of the 2011 POP Montreal Symposium, is up on the internet now! Above is just a short clip, but you can watch the entire hour-long adventure here. Man, in the last week I have increased my YouTube presence by about 200%.

BASICS OF BUTCHERY!

Montreal pals! If you’ve ever been curious about 1) sustainable farming 2) basics of butchery or 3) making your own bacon, then boy do we have a workshop for you. Brooklyn’s The Ethical Butcher will be traveling to Montreal for a special workshop and BBQ at Le Pick Up detailing the awesome processes behind hog butchery.

Email me if you’d like to register! (lepickupevents@gmail.com) It’s going to be a night to remember. More info here.

LIFE IN THE MILE END

[All images by Alexi Hobbs]

I really love these images my friend Alexi Hobbs took in and around the Mile End, for a TIME magazine story about Montreal’s bustling literary scene. He really captured the relaxed spirit of the neighborhood, especially in the summer, when everyone likes to hang outside all day long.

SWEET MAIL FROM SASHA!

Sweet mail from Sasha — the highlight of my week! I love that girl so much (can you tell?!), it’s hard for me to be away from her for so long. I unpacked two jars of her epic preserves (strawberry + chamomile, plum + cardamom!), and one of her hand-sewn eyes, stuffed with hops, lavender and chamomile. Such a beautiful object, I know I’ll keep it forever. The jam however, forget it. I cracked open the strawberry jam the next morning with Adam, and we downed a third of the jar. We ate huge spoonfuls of its delicious nectar, spread on toasted kamut bread with hazelnut butter. So it’s like, she’s not here, true, but parts of her are here, also, somehow. That’s enough. For now!

Thank you thank you thank you Sasha, for your sweet generosity and thoughtfulness!

KINFOLK DEBUT

I blame slow Canadian postal service, but I finally got my copy of Kinfolk Magazine the other week, and I’m so proud to be a part of such a beautiful publication! (And in such good company, too, like Ashley!)

My story, which details the difficult personal journey I took when I first moved to Montreal, was not an easy one to write. The article also represents a new shift in writing for me, one that is much more intimate and autobiographical. I’ve always been more comfortable focusing on other people — artists, musicians, chefs — so it was very hard to turn the writerly eye on myself, to somehow still produce something honest and sincere. I hope it reads alright. The photos, in any case, by our good friend John Cullen, are stunning. He captured the day so well. (And disguised, expertly, the reality that we were all pretty hungover!) I’ll post some outtakes soon…

A NEW KAIZEN

Like many people, I’ve never been to a Thomas Keller restaurant, but I often fantasize about his magical, creative food. I wonder what it would be like to be fed by his team, to eat the beautiful dishes that I have admired in books, magazines, and, of course, the internet. (Making his perfect carrot cake is a small consolation).

So I totally did a little dance when I heard that Canadian-born chef Noam Gedalof, fresh from the French Laundry kitchens, was the new executive chef at sushi spot Kaizen. The restaurant’s sommelier, Cassady Sniatowsky, invited us to try the newly-revamped menu, one that reflects both Gedalof’s time at French Laundry and the restaurant’s Japanese roots. The dinner was a spectacular, surprising explosion of texture and flavor. It was just the right amount of experimental — everything still felt really heartfelt, thoughtful, and measured. There were so many beautiful touches, likes a whisp of radish, clinging to the side of a bowl, or oyster leaves, dancing across the plate. The poetic details were really seductive. I can’t wait to go back!

A small scroll of uni, poised expectantly in a porcelain tureen, was presented alongside a tiny pitcher of murky broth.

As the pitcher slowly emptied its broth, I saw that the soup was shockingly opaque — gorgeous, like thick green paint.

The taste of this cold soup was surprising, too. I was expecting something heavy, but the soup was cool, delicate and light, channeling the ethereal, vegetal essence of nasturtium and urchin, garnished with edible nasturtium flower petals. It was an enthralling beginning.

Wafer-thin crackers, dusted in seaweed powder, were gone in moments. (I love eating crackers at restaurants).

Cassady made some killer wine selections, including this tremendous Jacques Selosse champagne — apparently one of the most sought-after champagnes in the world. I adore champagne, and this was the nicest one I’ve ever had, a lively biodynamic version that was full of mineral and citrusy notes, and bubbles that disappeared rapidly.

Quebec Snow Crab, Razor Clams, Radish, Fuji Apple, Scallion, Tatsoi and Daikon Sprouts, Cara Cara Orange, Navel Orange, Blood Orange

Adam has eaten this radish and apple salad at the restaurant before, and requested it again so that I would have a chance to try it. I’m so glad he did — the salad was an effortless blend of delicate, sweet, and bitter flavors. If only there was a setting on my mandoline to get my sliced radishes looking that translucent!

Even better were the tiny pearls of crisp apple nestled in the salad. I kept picturing the world’s smallest melon baller punching out these adorable shapes.

Oyster & Pickled Cucumber: Lebanese Cucumber, Kumamoto Oyster, Dill, Crème Fraiche, Oyster Leaf, Pea Tendrils, Bachelor’s Buttons

Appearance-wise, this cold oyster salad was my favorite of the night. I loved the dashes of creme fraiche, and the dancing forms of oyster leaves. Unfortunately the slices of pickle overwhelmed my palate. When it comes to oysters, I don’t like much interference.

The champagne long finished, Cassady pulled out a 2007 bottle of Domaine Roulot Les Luchet Meursault, one of my favorite regions in Burgundy. I was thrilled at how well this Japanese-inspired food went with our French wines.

Egg, Uni Sauce, chard, eryngii mushrooms

Urchin made another appearance, this time as a silken bed of puree, upon which a slow-cooked poached egg (six hours in a specially controlled warm water bath!), chunks of oryngii mushroom, and a swiss chard quenelle (genius!) were perched. As much as I love a properly cooked hard or soft boiled egg, I have yet to taste an egg with as smooth or uniform texture as the one I had at Kaizen. The yolk was so creamy and soft — almost like a fresh, slightly firm tofu.

I couldn’t resist swirling the components into a confetti-like mess. Unfortunately, I was so seduced by the next dish that I must have forgotten to take a photo, but imagine a tangled nest of soba noodles, glistening with butter, served with little neck clams, Isle Magdellan mussels, rice lettuce, and shirako, or deep-fried fish sperm. Oh yes. First time for everything! The sperm? Deliciously crisp and salty!

 Lobster, romaine, buttermilk vin, cauliflower, almond, carrot

For the final fish course we were presented with lobster two ways. My plate featured a “deconstructed lobster roll” (my words), with cold, poached lobster topped with thinly sliced carrots, cauliflower, romaine lettuce, and a delicious ranch-like buttermilk dressing. It was like the best Caesar salad ever.

Lobster, glazed sweetbread,braised salsify, crispy bone marrow, arugula

But it was Adam’s lobster, thickly glazed and paired with sweetbreads, braised salsify, and crispy bone marrow, that I really loved.

A dinner with Adam wouldn’t be complete without at least a few bottles of pinot noir. We adored this 1999 Domaine G. Roumiere Chambolle-Musigny.

Glazed terrine of foie gras, umeboshi glazed, pickled eggplant, turnip, beech, asian pear, mizuna

The final savory course was foie gras, presented two ways. I was served the chilled foie gras dish, plated with tiny mushrooms and pickled eggplant.

Sautéed foie gras, black garlic, roasted sunchoke, black trumpet, celery, almond

Adam’s foie gras dish, with its black trumpet mushrooms, roasted sunchokes and celery, was much more robust in appearance and flavor. Though both were memorable, I slightly preferred the heady, bitter flavors of the mizuna and radish in mine, which cut through the foie gras’ richness.

Thankfully, our dessert was simple — a fluffy chocolate souffle with an airy crumb — served with a beautiful Hungarian dessert wine.

For me, a visit to French Laundry is still a wild fantasy, but now I have something even better, a place right in Montreal that truly delivers boundless amounts of imagination, elegance, and surprise. Most tasting menus in Montreal leave me overwhelmed and uncomfortably full — endless iterations of venison, beef, foie gras, and cheese — but Adam and I sailed out of Kaizin feeling inspired and happy. I’m so excited to see what Noam will do next — I have a feeling he’ll make quite an impact on Montreal’s already-incredible food community.

RECCURRING CRAVING

The other afternoon, I couldn’t stop fantasizing about thick, tender ribbons of fettuccine, coated in a slick, peppery carbonara sauce, or translucent purses of ravioli, cradling mushrooms and chopped greens. I was gripped with another intense longing for pasta. Never one to deny myself a craving, I called up my friend Carlo, who owns a pasta maker, and we dove right in.

I’d say making pasta is equal parts tricky and simple — slightly tricky at the outset, then astonishingly easy all the way to the finish line. I decided to use Marcella Hazan’s fresh pasta recipe (she of the famous tomato-butter sauce!), which requires two cups of flour for every two eggs. Easy enough to remember. (While I used simple all-purpose flour, other recipes recommend dopio zero flour, which has a high protein content and is also great for pizzas).

The process, at the start, is a little fussy: build a small volcano, crack the eggs into a crater at the top, and gently, steadily, work the egg into the flour. (A little egg will run down the sides of your volcano like lava. No stress. I folded it back in and reshaped until combined). After it comes together into a shaggy ball of dough, knead like crazy for about five or six minutes until the glutens develop. The finished dough will be smooth, soft, pliable, and a beautiful pale yellow.

(At first, your pasta dough may be a little fussy and brittle, as you can see from Carlo’s first attempt! But after we ran his dough through the pasta press a few times, it turned surprisingly supple and soft. And I promise you can’t taste the difference!)

I was so happy with the fettuccine that we made. The wavy, marigold-colored ribbons, barely dusted with flour, was exactly what I had been fantasizing about earlier that afternoon. I didn’t want to distract from the perfection of the pasta, so the sauce was simple, just a few cups of halved cherry tomatoes, minced shallots, and chopped garlic, fried at high heat in a little bacon grease and olive oil until the tomatoes released their sweet, rose-colored liquid. I added a fat splash of white wine, and piled on chopped basil, parsley, shaved Pecorino, toasted pine nuts, and reserved bacon to finish. We made a big mess — flour everywhere! — but it was worth it. Think I may just invest in my own pasta maker!

IT’S A DESSERT TO CRY OVER

I was catching up on last week’s Slice posts over at Serious Eats (sometimes I have to actively wait to read their posts until after I’ve eaten a meal and feel full, otherwise I get such intense hunger pangs for pizza!), and totally fell in love with this new video series feating Nancy Silverton, of La Brea Bakery and Pizzeria Mozza fame.

So you can imagine how stoked I was to poke on the Internet for a few seconds longer, only to find this totally incredible old-school video series featuring a very young and very beautiful Nancy Silverton with Julia Child! I have to admit, ever since Ashley planted a bug in my head about starting a video series, I haven’t been able to shake it. If I ever attempted such a feat, I would want it to be as genuine and loving as the moments shared between these two women.

Watching Nancy show Julia how she makes her custard brioche tart with sauteed fruits (!) is beyond inspiring. It’s actually really moving. (There’s another video here). So much passion and love and care. I could watch that woman whisk a sabayon forever! (And also — love learning that Nancy likes to fortify her whipped cream with creme fraiche. Now that I know that, I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to make it another way!)

“Powdered sugar? That’s about as far as this can go, isn’t it?” And I’m dead. Thank you internet for existing.

FILMING FRUIT HUNTERS

Our good friend Yung Chang is in the midst of making a documentary film adaptation of Adam’s first book, and he’s been incredibly busy traveling around the world and eating delicious exotic fruits. (Tough job, but someone has to do it!) Yung also shot in Montreal for one short week, so we made a visit to the set and checked everything out. It was so exciting! Yung’s crew had converted a gigantic warehouse in Lasalle into a lush, tropical rainforest. (There was even a mist machine to create humidity and fog!) It was so incredible to watch Yung hard at work, and also to see Adam’s book transformed into vivid, dynamic images. The afternoon we were there, Yung was  shooting a scene of a proto-human encountering fruit for the first time. It was out of control. If the rest of Yung’s film is nearly as insane, it’s going to be the best documentary of all time.

LONG-DISTANCE CHAT WITH SASHA

[All photos by Sasha]

Many of you know Sasha from her beautiful blog, but I am lucky enough to know her in real life. When I lived in Ithaca, we became very close. I was really drawn to Sasha’s creativity, intelligence, beauty, honesty, kindness, humor (she’s so sarcastic, though you might not know it on her blog!), and, of course, killer thrifting skills.

Fortunately, my move to Montreal hasn’t compromised our friendship at all; we both love writing and talking, so it has been easy for us to stay close. Last summer, I wrote a story for Acquired Taste about Sasha’s gorgeous home and her magical summer parties, but so much has changed since then.  So I asked Sasha if I could interview her — again — and happily she said yes.

Natasha: It seems like your cooking style has changed quite drastically in the last six or seven months.

Sasha: I’ve been in a really healthy + macrobiotic-leaning phase lately. I think I was heading there anyway, but then a big change in my life (the ending of a long-term relationship, going from cooking for two people to cooking just for me), kind of gave it a bigger push. I think I needed food to really be something very specific, really grounding and healing. I think it’s starting to shift again, like this morning I woke up and put on a big pot of chicken soup to cook, which I haven’t done in a while.

In a certain way, I think I get really, really into things for one reason or another, like a certain spice or way of cooking, and do it to the exclusion of everything else, until I feel I’ve absorbed it well enough, or as much as I want to. Like I will only eat a certain way for a while, or use a certain herb in everything (like chamomile) until I feel like I have a grasp on what it’s about. Then I can branch out again with some new understanding of something.

I started eating in this way that felt more delicate to me, because I felt that way to myself. And for the most part, it’s kind of stuck. Before, I ate more 70s and 80s-style vegetarian, mixed with middle eastern spices, peppered in with a little Weston A. Price / Nourishing Traditions ethos. (Like, organ meats and whole food everything). Now it’s way more macrobiotic leaning. Simpler. I’m into steaming things, and eating roots, especially burdock, very grounding.

Natasha: How does your approach to cooking change from season to season?

Sasha: I used to be way more intense about trying to eat with the seasons. I’ve gotten more lax, but have perpetual non-seasonal eating guilt. I try not to buy things that have been shipped from California to New York, but sometimes I break down, and, like, buy an orange, and then proceed to eat it with guilt.

Natasha: Could you describe a typical day of eating?

Sasha: I get up really early, feed the dogs, and have coffee with hot raw milk. I look forward to my coffee the night before, it’s totally ritualistic and thrilling. I always eat breakfast before I go to work, or make it and bring it in a container. It’s always oatmeal, steel cut oats, but I vary what else goes in the pot depending on the day. I like chamomile in there. Also tahini. But not together, at least I haven’t put them together yet.

I make a cup of oatmeal at a time and keep the leftovers either sitting out or in the fridge. Basically I’ll have hot oatmeal one day and then eat it cold the rest of the days until it’s gone. Sometimes it’s gone really fast and others it lasts longer depending how good my combo was! : )))

For lunch, I usually grab random things. The pace at work is pretty fast so I’m eating something like a banana (guilt-ridden) or dried fruit + nuts in the dishroom before running out to the floor again. And then I’ll eat some eggs at the end of the shift and then something when I get home. Dinner I am pretty much always eating solo, so I make whatever I feel like, usually something with vegetables and a grain and something with protein.

I often make a good amount of rice so I have some leftover, and I always have hard boiled eggs in the fridge. I don’t really eat white sugar. I feel like it’s totally a drug for me, has to be all or nothing. I totally eat an absurd amount of honey, and other sweeteners like maple syrup and brown rice syrup, but I can’t take real sweets, I’m so not used to that taste. Like a lot of people, I don’t have health or dental insurance, so not eating sugar is my homegrown closest-I-can-get-to-health-insurance policy. Although, I’ve been eating so much dried fruit these days, which I never really did before, and I think it’s affecting my teeth! I think I need a break even from that.

For “dessert” I always want apple sauce, which I make a huge pot of and keep re-making when it’s gone, with tons of dried fruit, kind of like fruit compote more than apple sauce. Or I’ll have yogurt with dried fruit or fruit crisp, I love making (+ eating) crisps.

I drink so much tea with milk + honey, which feels like dessert to me, especially chamomile mixed with peppermint and poppy. My friend Alexis made it for me once and I’ve made it all the time since. Makes you really chilled out.

Natasha: What’s your feeling about restaurants? Your blog is mostly about the kind of food you enjoy at home.

Sasha: I love cooking, and I work in a restaurant so I spend a lot of time in one already. And I live in a smallish town where I grew up so I kind of exercised my eating out options long ago. When I take trips I like eating out places (though am usually very ready to get back to home cooking by the end). If I do eat out I either find something similar to the way I like eating (healthy, vegetarian-leaning or good sources for meats), something regional that I totally don’t know how to make or know about the spices, or I’d want to save up and go somewhere more high-end, but not pretentious feeling. For a long time I’ve wanted to eat at Oleana in Boston, Ana Sortun’s restaurant. That’s the one place I’ve thought consciously I’d really like to go eat.

Natasha: What is your plan of attack when you buy groceries and food for yourself?

Sasha: I always have staples like grains, beans, dried fruit, and nuts. I buy from the bulk section, so I’m always bringing my empty jars to refill. I buy fresh stuff as much as possible locally, from the winter farmer’s market. Last week I bought a 50 pound bag of carrots and 15 pounds of apples and keep them in chest of drawers in my cold garage.

Natasha: What are your thoughts on cooking with others? I’m a little particular about it. There are some people I love to cook with (Adam), but then there are other scenarios where I really prefer to work alone.

Sasha:  I pretty much always cook alone, I love cooking alone. Though I have made some meals recently with my little sister Anja, who is an amazing cook on her own, and that’s been really fun. We don’t have to talk. Sometimes we’ll ask the other for advice, like, “Do you think this would be good in here?”

I think cooking alongside someone that already really knows how and has their own sense of flavors can be also a great feeling, because you’ll both bring something different to the table than you would have alone. You get an interesting meal out of it, and it’s cool to see someone making something you could make yourself, but see how they do it differently, put more of this or less of that than you would have…

Natasha: Do you find that you tend to cook different kinds of meals if you’re cooking for a group, rather than just cooking for yourself?

Sasha: The first thing that I think when I think how I cook differently for myself v. others is that when I cook for myself I make stuff that goes in a bowl. Like, I just pull out my wooden bowl and start putting stuff in it, usually stuff I already have, no cooking involved. Maybe I’ll steam some kale to add to other leftover things. Cooking for other people, there’s more chance of eating on a plate. And I actually “cook” a bunch of things that go together.

Natasha: What is your attitude about cookbooks? Do you ever use recipes anymore? In what way do they function as resources or inspiration?

Sasha: I used cookbooks in a hardcore way when I first started cooking, like I totally followed recipes. That feels like a really long time ago. Now they’re the backbone of my understanding of ingredients, but I do more my own thing — a combination of that and recipes that I’ve cooked so many times I know them by heart. I go back to cookbooks periodically just to look through and remind myself of things and get new ideas.

Natasha: How have you seen your own blog grow and change? How and why did it begin?

Sasha: I think with things in general, maybe/likely it’s this way for everyone, I just feel a compulsion and ultimately if it keeps nagging at me until I follow through.

I had kind of discovered this world of blogs and something about it drew me in, it became something I was compelled to do myself. I would think about it a lot, not really know why, and then one day just signed up for one and posted. I remember it feeling really strange but also exciting, the first post on there.

And it’s cool, the first blogs I went to where I felt like, yea, I love what they’re doing, are still blogs that I go to regularly now, like Ashley’s blog and Mary’s blog.

When I really think about it, the desire to do it, it was just about getting to know myself more, organizing my thoughts and creating this world inside a world that felt like somehow it could get me closer to who I was/am. Basically just the desire to do things to get closer to oneself, I think my blog functions like that for me.

Natasha: How do you balance the different topics you like to write about — like food, fashion, film, music, art, etc?

Sasha: I don’t consciously set out to make it any particular way, though I think I try to balance, like, food posts with other sorts of things so it doesn’t feel too heavy in one area. But more like they are all one thing, they all go together. I think with things in general, I like things to feel simultaneously blurry and sharp. A lot of films I love have this feeling about them, it’s how life feels to me and I think I want my blog to reflect that fuzzy-but-crisp-ness somehow. Like you’re simultaneously really close to something and also so far away from it, you see it but you don’t.

I feel torn between the impressionistic blog and the truth-as-truth blog (ie. show-me-your-dirty-dishes). So I think I want to try to blend those two things, not be too far on either side. Probably sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t, definitely I’ve looked back at old posts and cringed, like looking at an old diary…

Natasha: We’ve all been there. Okay, some quick questions. Indispensable cooking tools?

Sasha: CAST IRON SKILLETS! Wooden spoons. Mortar + pestle.

Natasha: Dream kitchen gadgets you would like to own?

Sasha: A really nice suribachi (my mortar really is awful and I use it all the time, always grind spices by hand from whole, don’t buy pre-ground) + a grain mill/grinder, this one, but it’s so expensive!

Natasha: #1 food item you would bring to a desert island?

Sasha: South River chickpea miso! (As long as the island had drinking water).

Natasha: Haha so practical. Favorite kind of snacks?

Sasha: I keep a jar of miso at work and eat that like a snack — just add hot water and drink. Bananas…

Natasha: What is a typical dinner?

Sasha: Leftover grain (usually barley or brown rice— I like to mix sweet brown with short grain brown), some protein (either leftover cooked beans, some fish, or a hard-boiled egg, or yogurt and nuts), something green, sauerkraut, and maybe leftover tahini dressing on top.

Thank you Sasha!! See more of her wonderful blog here.