Category Archives: food

MIDDAY RICE

I had all the ingredients for a simple fried rice (day-old rice, Thai basil, fresh eggs, cucumber, ginger and garlic), so I just went for it. The lunch came together in less than 8 minutes, and so, so good with a swirl of sriracha on top.

 

COOL FEST + FEAST

[Celery root mash, coq au vin, fennel confit, and herb salad]

Another Cool Fest has come and gone. The theme for my contribution was ‘French peasant,’ with lots of comfy, messy dishes like coq au vin, rabbit cassoulet, lentil soup, and chocolate tarts. As usual, I took hardly any photos because I was so swamped bustling around the kitchen (I really wish I had remembered to get a shot of that apple tart I made the first night!), but it’s hard to complain about a weekend that was so full of love and friendship and generosity. And so, so much killer music! Cool Fest never fails to inspire me. Big thanks to all my pals who helped me wash and chop vegetables!

A SPECIFIC CRAVING

The other night, I was struck with an inexplicable, deep craving for spaghetti and meatballs. Nothing else would do. Not lasagna, not pizza, not any other kind of pasta. Spaghetti and meatballs. The Italian-American kind, the sloppy, rustic meatball that drowns in red sauce and a blanket of grated Parmesan. Who knows where cravings come from, but I identified mine, and it had to be quashed.

So I made it happen. I made up the recipe as I went along, loosely looking at the Barefoot Contessa version, too. I used equal thirds of ground beef, pork, and veal, and added panko, egg yolks, chopped shallots, and water until the mixture felt moist and ready. The sauce was a simple-enough combination of San Marzano tomatoes, onions, red wine, garlic, and thyme, and it simmered away for hours. And as for the pasta, well, I bought that fresh from Milano!

We dove into the meatballs alongside some decadent garlic bread (I split open a baguette, slather it with a compound garlic-parsley butter, tightly wrap it up in aluminum foil, and gently reheat in a 250 oven until soft and fragrant), a fishy Caesar salad, and lots of red Italian wine. Easiest dinner party of all time!

LONG-DISTANCE CHAT WITH SASHA

[All photos by Sasha]

Many of you know Sasha from her beautiful blog, but I am lucky enough to know her in real life. When I lived in Ithaca, we became very close. I was really drawn to Sasha’s creativity, intelligence, beauty, honesty, kindness, humor (she’s so sarcastic, though you might not know it on her blog!), and, of course, killer thrifting skills.

Fortunately, my move to Montreal hasn’t compromised our friendship at all; we both love writing and talking, so it has been easy for us to stay close. Last summer, I wrote a story for Acquired Taste about Sasha’s gorgeous home and her magical summer parties, but so much has changed since then.  So I asked Sasha if I could interview her — again — and happily she said yes.

Natasha: It seems like your cooking style has changed quite drastically in the last six or seven months.

Sasha: I’ve been in a really healthy + macrobiotic-leaning phase lately. I think I was heading there anyway, but then a big change in my life (the ending of a long-term relationship, going from cooking for two people to cooking just for me), kind of gave it a bigger push. I think I needed food to really be something very specific, really grounding and healing. I think it’s starting to shift again, like this morning I woke up and put on a big pot of chicken soup to cook, which I haven’t done in a while.

In a certain way, I think I get really, really into things for one reason or another, like a certain spice or way of cooking, and do it to the exclusion of everything else, until I feel I’ve absorbed it well enough, or as much as I want to. Like I will only eat a certain way for a while, or use a certain herb in everything (like chamomile) until I feel like I have a grasp on what it’s about. Then I can branch out again with some new understanding of something.

I started eating in this way that felt more delicate to me, because I felt that way to myself. And for the most part, it’s kind of stuck. Before, I ate more 70s and 80s-style vegetarian, mixed with middle eastern spices, peppered in with a little Weston A. Price / Nourishing Traditions ethos. (Like, organ meats and whole food everything). Now it’s way more macrobiotic leaning. Simpler. I’m into steaming things, and eating roots, especially burdock, very grounding.

Natasha: How does your approach to cooking change from season to season?

Sasha: I used to be way more intense about trying to eat with the seasons. I’ve gotten more lax, but have perpetual non-seasonal eating guilt. I try not to buy things that have been shipped from California to New York, but sometimes I break down, and, like, buy an orange, and then proceed to eat it with guilt.

Natasha: Could you describe a typical day of eating?

Sasha: I get up really early, feed the dogs, and have coffee with hot raw milk. I look forward to my coffee the night before, it’s totally ritualistic and thrilling. I always eat breakfast before I go to work, or make it and bring it in a container. It’s always oatmeal, steel cut oats, but I vary what else goes in the pot depending on the day. I like chamomile in there. Also tahini. But not together, at least I haven’t put them together yet.

I make a cup of oatmeal at a time and keep the leftovers either sitting out or in the fridge. Basically I’ll have hot oatmeal one day and then eat it cold the rest of the days until it’s gone. Sometimes it’s gone really fast and others it lasts longer depending how good my combo was! : )))

For lunch, I usually grab random things. The pace at work is pretty fast so I’m eating something like a banana (guilt-ridden) or dried fruit + nuts in the dishroom before running out to the floor again. And then I’ll eat some eggs at the end of the shift and then something when I get home. Dinner I am pretty much always eating solo, so I make whatever I feel like, usually something with vegetables and a grain and something with protein.

I often make a good amount of rice so I have some leftover, and I always have hard boiled eggs in the fridge. I don’t really eat white sugar. I feel like it’s totally a drug for me, has to be all or nothing. I totally eat an absurd amount of honey, and other sweeteners like maple syrup and brown rice syrup, but I can’t take real sweets, I’m so not used to that taste. Like a lot of people, I don’t have health or dental insurance, so not eating sugar is my homegrown closest-I-can-get-to-health-insurance policy. Although, I’ve been eating so much dried fruit these days, which I never really did before, and I think it’s affecting my teeth! I think I need a break even from that.

For “dessert” I always want apple sauce, which I make a huge pot of and keep re-making when it’s gone, with tons of dried fruit, kind of like fruit compote more than apple sauce. Or I’ll have yogurt with dried fruit or fruit crisp, I love making (+ eating) crisps.

I drink so much tea with milk + honey, which feels like dessert to me, especially chamomile mixed with peppermint and poppy. My friend Alexis made it for me once and I’ve made it all the time since. Makes you really chilled out.

Natasha: What’s your feeling about restaurants? Your blog is mostly about the kind of food you enjoy at home.

Sasha: I love cooking, and I work in a restaurant so I spend a lot of time in one already. And I live in a smallish town where I grew up so I kind of exercised my eating out options long ago. When I take trips I like eating out places (though am usually very ready to get back to home cooking by the end). If I do eat out I either find something similar to the way I like eating (healthy, vegetarian-leaning or good sources for meats), something regional that I totally don’t know how to make or know about the spices, or I’d want to save up and go somewhere more high-end, but not pretentious feeling. For a long time I’ve wanted to eat at Oleana in Boston, Ana Sortun’s restaurant. That’s the one place I’ve thought consciously I’d really like to go eat.

Natasha: What is your plan of attack when you buy groceries and food for yourself?

Sasha: I always have staples like grains, beans, dried fruit, and nuts. I buy from the bulk section, so I’m always bringing my empty jars to refill. I buy fresh stuff as much as possible locally, from the winter farmer’s market. Last week I bought a 50 pound bag of carrots and 15 pounds of apples and keep them in chest of drawers in my cold garage.

Natasha: What are your thoughts on cooking with others? I’m a little particular about it. There are some people I love to cook with (Adam), but then there are other scenarios where I really prefer to work alone.

Sasha:  I pretty much always cook alone, I love cooking alone. Though I have made some meals recently with my little sister Anja, who is an amazing cook on her own, and that’s been really fun. We don’t have to talk. Sometimes we’ll ask the other for advice, like, “Do you think this would be good in here?”

I think cooking alongside someone that already really knows how and has their own sense of flavors can be also a great feeling, because you’ll both bring something different to the table than you would have alone. You get an interesting meal out of it, and it’s cool to see someone making something you could make yourself, but see how they do it differently, put more of this or less of that than you would have…

Natasha: Do you find that you tend to cook different kinds of meals if you’re cooking for a group, rather than just cooking for yourself?

Sasha: The first thing that I think when I think how I cook differently for myself v. others is that when I cook for myself I make stuff that goes in a bowl. Like, I just pull out my wooden bowl and start putting stuff in it, usually stuff I already have, no cooking involved. Maybe I’ll steam some kale to add to other leftover things. Cooking for other people, there’s more chance of eating on a plate. And I actually “cook” a bunch of things that go together.

Natasha: What is your attitude about cookbooks? Do you ever use recipes anymore? In what way do they function as resources or inspiration?

Sasha: I used cookbooks in a hardcore way when I first started cooking, like I totally followed recipes. That feels like a really long time ago. Now they’re the backbone of my understanding of ingredients, but I do more my own thing — a combination of that and recipes that I’ve cooked so many times I know them by heart. I go back to cookbooks periodically just to look through and remind myself of things and get new ideas.

Natasha: How have you seen your own blog grow and change? How and why did it begin?

Sasha: I think with things in general, maybe/likely it’s this way for everyone, I just feel a compulsion and ultimately if it keeps nagging at me until I follow through.

I had kind of discovered this world of blogs and something about it drew me in, it became something I was compelled to do myself. I would think about it a lot, not really know why, and then one day just signed up for one and posted. I remember it feeling really strange but also exciting, the first post on there.

And it’s cool, the first blogs I went to where I felt like, yea, I love what they’re doing, are still blogs that I go to regularly now, like Ashley’s blog and Mary’s blog.

When I really think about it, the desire to do it, it was just about getting to know myself more, organizing my thoughts and creating this world inside a world that felt like somehow it could get me closer to who I was/am. Basically just the desire to do things to get closer to oneself, I think my blog functions like that for me.

Natasha: How do you balance the different topics you like to write about — like food, fashion, film, music, art, etc?

Sasha: I don’t consciously set out to make it any particular way, though I think I try to balance, like, food posts with other sorts of things so it doesn’t feel too heavy in one area. But more like they are all one thing, they all go together. I think with things in general, I like things to feel simultaneously blurry and sharp. A lot of films I love have this feeling about them, it’s how life feels to me and I think I want my blog to reflect that fuzzy-but-crisp-ness somehow. Like you’re simultaneously really close to something and also so far away from it, you see it but you don’t.

I feel torn between the impressionistic blog and the truth-as-truth blog (ie. show-me-your-dirty-dishes). So I think I want to try to blend those two things, not be too far on either side. Probably sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t, definitely I’ve looked back at old posts and cringed, like looking at an old diary…

Natasha: We’ve all been there. Okay, some quick questions. Indispensable cooking tools?

Sasha: CAST IRON SKILLETS! Wooden spoons. Mortar + pestle.

Natasha: Dream kitchen gadgets you would like to own?

Sasha: A really nice suribachi (my mortar really is awful and I use it all the time, always grind spices by hand from whole, don’t buy pre-ground) + a grain mill/grinder, this one, but it’s so expensive!

Natasha: #1 food item you would bring to a desert island?

Sasha: South River chickpea miso! (As long as the island had drinking water).

Natasha: Haha so practical. Favorite kind of snacks?

Sasha: I keep a jar of miso at work and eat that like a snack — just add hot water and drink. Bananas…

Natasha: What is a typical dinner?

Sasha: Leftover grain (usually barley or brown rice— I like to mix sweet brown with short grain brown), some protein (either leftover cooked beans, some fish, or a hard-boiled egg, or yogurt and nuts), something green, sauerkraut, and maybe leftover tahini dressing on top.

Thank you Sasha!! See more of her wonderful blog here.

QUAIL, NAUGHTY

I finally had Dan and Julia over so I could give little Jojo the silk pink vest I bought for her in Hong Kong! (Doesn’t she look adorable?) To celebrate the occasion I made a kid-friendly supper, which included Ethan Stowell’s roast quail stuffed with kale, sage, breadcrumbs and pancetta (we told Jojo it was chicken), roasted carrots and purple potatoes, and a big arugula salad with roasted beets, seared fennel, toasted sesame seeds, walnuts, and shaved Pecorino. And Julia’s perfect brownies to end the evening!

In Ethan’s recipe, you’re supposed to truss up the quails using a combination of string and foil, but I was in a rush and forgot — which explains why the quails look so lewd, with their legs splayed wide open! It was still delicious — the roasting meat seasons and moistens the kale tucked inside the cavity, so everything comes together perfectly seasoned and juicy. Plus, you get to eat with your hands. Kid-friendly, indeed!

RESTAURANT MELODIES

Last month I hosted a small concert at Le Pick Up for my friends Steve Gunn and Doc Dunn. We rarely have concerts at the restaurant because of its tiny size and residential location but it turned out to be perfectly suited for the mellow music. It was such a cozy night!

Adam and I took advantage of the kitchen space and prepared dinner for the touring musicians, including an awesome Moro East cauliflower soup, which is flavored with cumin seeds, pine nuts, and paprika. Super recommended. (I found the recipe online here!) Adam also whipped up two Roman-inspired dishes, including an incredible puntarelle salad with halved grapes and anchovies (totally inspired combo — especially if you like bitterness), and a streamlined pasta dish flavored with tiny navy beans, roasted red peppers, and greens.

And to finish, big slices of my red velvet cake. Not as elegant but who turns down a piece of cake? HA!

 

 

A VALENTINE’S RECAP

For Valentine’s Day this year, we teamed up with some of our sweetest friends for a meal inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi’s cookbook Plenty. From the book there was Yotam’s bulghur wheat and roasted peppers salad; cauliflower with raisins; and eggplant spread dressed with pomegranate seeds. There was also a puntarelle salad dressed in lemon; the most delicious green olives packed lightly in oil and orange zest; purple potatoes, chorizo, fennel, and crispy sage; oh and a pair of chickens from Rotisserie Portugalia, too.

I’m glad I was able to sneak in some healthy eating before the decadence of Montreal en Lumiere completely took over my life! (Haha, who am I kidding: at this Valentine’s dinner there was also foie gras in a can, pulled pork, and biscuits!) But really, I’ve been eating like a fat king all week long, but when it comes to a feast, this is the kind of food I would want, every time.

Towards the end of the meal, Katherine lit a delicate lover’s candle — two candles, two wicks, in an embrace. It was a lovely close to one of the best Valentine’s of recent memory.

AT HOME WITH SASH

Since my Acquired Taste story about Sasha isn’t available online, I thought I would post some of the photos I took when I visited her last summer. I have so many, I kind of want to share them all.

It was really humid that day, the kind where staying inside is almost unbearable. Being in a hot kitchen, even worse. Typical upstate New York summer, it rained on and off all afternoon, but we took every opportunity to escape outside to her backyard for wine or to go on walks.

I love writing about my best friends. It’s happening more and more, almost emerging as a pattern, which made me realize how fascinating and talented and smart my loved ones really are. I’ve long admired Sasha’s intuitive and thoughtful cooking style, yet I had never really watched her “in action.” (Whenever I would arrive at her house for dinner parties, everything would already be ready to go!)

More photos to come….

YEAR OF THE WATER DRAGON

Chinese New Year has always been my favorite holiday. (Thanksgiving is a close second). When I was growing up, my parents would throw epic annual parties at our house that usually ended in drunken Chinese opera singing and gifts of money in tiny red envelopes. (How I treasured those envelopes!) Sometimes my mom would make dumplings from scratch, and everyone would rave at how delicious they were. She always kept it simple — just pork and minced chives. Our galas became so infamous that when I was in high school, my friends, begging for an invitation, would crash our house in droves of 5 and 10.

Last year, with the help of my friend Yung Chang, I hosted an unbelievable party where we made thousands of dumplings and did karaoke. Okay, the night was really, really, really epic. But this year, for the year of the water dragon, I almost didn’t throw a party. Yung was away on set for his latest film, and Adam was gone on another assignment. No celebration this year, I thought.

Unexpectedly, at the eleventh hour, I got inspired. I emailed a small but solid gang of friends, and bought a few bags of frozen (sorry, Mom) dumplings, some vegetables, and a gorgeous striped sea bass from Marche Oriental, and began to cook. The dinner was slightly more elaborate than defrosted dumplings and cold beer, but still simple, simple, simple. There was Chinese broccoli coated in black vinegar, dan dan noodles provided by Bartek, crispy fried noodles (all those noodles are excellent for longevity), a beautiful cabbage salad made by Katherine, and that tender sea bass, poached for four minutes in salted water and then coated in a luscious, aromatic sauce.

I’m a fan of the impromptu gathering, of the lower expectations and relaxed vibes. As a Libra, I will always love a big, out of control party, but I secretly prefer the chill zone of a small group and simple offerings. You know when you have a really good feeling about a year? I have a great feeling about 2012.

K, my favorite recipe for dumpling dunking sauce:

3 T smooth peanut butter

4-6 T reduced sodium soy sauce, to taste (add a few more shakes if your peanut butter is on the sweet side)

2-4 T rice vinegar (I also like the more intense black vinegar)

2-3 T finely minced ginger

2-3 T finely minced garlic

2-4 t sriracha or red chili paste (or even more if you’re feeling gutsy)

2 t sesame oil

2 t oyster sauce

big handful cilantro, finely chopped another big handful parsley, finely chopped

few stems scallions, chopped

the juice of a lime or lemon

salt and black pepper, to taste

Add all ingredients and stir until smooth. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. Let the flavors get to know one another. Use for dumpling dipping and serve with extra dishes of black vinegar and hot sauce.

Happy New Year!!!!!!

MORNING TACO

In my research for an upcoming story in the Montreal Gazette, I have found myself surrounded by a healthy surplus of all products fermented. I’ve been trying to incorporate them into all my meals, but mostly I just stand over the sink, jar in hand, wolfing down kraut with a fork until satisfied.

In an attempt to mix things up, the other morning I made breakfast tacos by quickly roasting some root vegetables (carrots, potatoes, parsnip), then stuffing them in some corn tortillas, alongside some mashed black beans, shredded gruyere, Maya salsa, and spicy, crunchy curtido, given to me by the lovely Haley Butcher of 100% Ferments. Maybe a scrambled egg or two would have made these tacos actually “breakfast” in composition, but these really satisfied regardless!