Category Archives: food

SO SICHUAN

I grew up in San Diego and I’ve been to China, Singapore, and Hong Kong — so my standards for Chinese food are really high. Montreal has never been a great Chinese restaurant city (in my opinion, its Chinatown can best be described as “quaint”), which is why I make things like dim sum right in my own apartment.

All of this is changing with the somewhat recent addition of Kanbai to the Montreal restaurant scene. I was first alerted to it by my friend Yung Chang, who loves Kanbai and considers it as good as the Sichuanese restaurants he frequented when he lived in the province to shoot his latest film, China Heavyweight. I heard about it again by my friend Bartek, the food critic at the Montreal Mirror, who gave it a glowing review.

So I finally went. Twice in three days, in fact! Both visits were terrific, and included essential orders of the spicy green beans with ground pork, Sichuan-style fried cabbage, and fish in hot chili soup — all favorites of mine, flawlessly executed. I’m not sure if I’ll ever get tired of the exhilarating, narcotic headrush of those Sichuan peppercorns. There’s nothing quite like it.

MEET UP

Internet dating is nothing strange, but how many people make friends over the internet? Getting to know rad people through this blog has to be the best reason ever for blogging. In this instance, it was finally meeting one of my favorite bloggers, Joyce, and her awesome husband Ben, in a kind of blind-double-date.

When I found out they were making an impromptu visit to Montreal, a dinner party meet-up was clearly in order. And what a pleasure to discover the overwhelming semiotic overlap, from musical tastes to California childhood to academic lifestyle (Joyce is a historian — just like my dad!) to love of cats (Wallace, duh!).

We chatted over tarragon roast chicken, oceanic goodies from Kamouraska, Paul Legault’s famous strawberries, and a slightly fizzy biodynamic gamay from Morgon (one of my favorite grapes!). “Grape juice!” Joyce exclaimed. “Dangerous,” she added. Dangerous, indeed — we polished off that bottle in record time. The internet is an awesome place, but nothing beats sharing a bottle of wine with friends in real life.

BANDOL AND LAMB

This post may be a little late (Easter fell on the eve of our trip to the countryside), but I had to mention our Easter feast! Last year, Adam and I were inspired by Richard Olney’s woodfired lamb brochettes (crazy organ photos that really take me back here). For 2012, I wanted to stick with the lamb theme, but not skew so… experimental.

This year’s dinner was a spectacular group effort: I made a shaved fennel salad with fresh green chickpeas, fava beans, dill, and mint, as well as roasted fingerling potatoes, glazed carrots, and a plum tart; James brought a mouthwatering Bandol rosé (my favorite!), Brian made a bacon-avocado-quinoa salad (total dude food!), Chloe baked delicate date cakes, and Jessica hauled over the star of the night, two hulking lamb shoulders, which sous-vide cooked at Laloux overnight. She meant business  — and the leftovers were made into the perfect road trip sandwiches the next day, shredded and packed into a baguette with lots of Dijon mustard and leftover fennel.

RECCURRING CRAVING

The other afternoon, I couldn’t stop fantasizing about thick, tender ribbons of fettuccine, coated in a slick, peppery carbonara sauce, or translucent purses of ravioli, cradling mushrooms and chopped greens. I was gripped with another intense longing for pasta. Never one to deny myself a craving, I called up my friend Carlo, who owns a pasta maker, and we dove right in.

I’d say making pasta is equal parts tricky and simple — slightly tricky at the outset, then astonishingly easy all the way to the finish line. I decided to use Marcella Hazan’s fresh pasta recipe (she of the famous tomato-butter sauce!), which requires two cups of flour for every two eggs. Easy enough to remember. (While I used simple all-purpose flour, other recipes recommend dopio zero flour, which has a high protein content and is also great for pizzas).

The process, at the start, is a little fussy: build a small volcano, crack the eggs into a crater at the top, and gently, steadily, work the egg into the flour. (A little egg will run down the sides of your volcano like lava. No stress. I folded it back in and reshaped until combined). After it comes together into a shaggy ball of dough, knead like crazy for about five or six minutes until the glutens develop. The finished dough will be smooth, soft, pliable, and a beautiful pale yellow.

(At first, your pasta dough may be a little fussy and brittle, as you can see from Carlo’s first attempt! But after we ran his dough through the pasta press a few times, it turned surprisingly supple and soft. And I promise you can’t taste the difference!)

I was so happy with the fettuccine that we made. The wavy, marigold-colored ribbons, barely dusted with flour, was exactly what I had been fantasizing about earlier that afternoon. I didn’t want to distract from the perfection of the pasta, so the sauce was simple, just a few cups of halved cherry tomatoes, minced shallots, and chopped garlic, fried at high heat in a little bacon grease and olive oil until the tomatoes released their sweet, rose-colored liquid. I added a fat splash of white wine, and piled on chopped basil, parsley, shaved Pecorino, toasted pine nuts, and reserved bacon to finish. We made a big mess — flour everywhere! — but it was worth it. Think I may just invest in my own pasta maker!

MIDDAY RICE

I had all the ingredients for a simple fried rice (day-old rice, Thai basil, fresh eggs, cucumber, ginger and garlic), so I just went for it. The lunch came together in less than 8 minutes, and so, so good with a swirl of sriracha on top.

 

COOL FEST + FEAST

[Celery root mash, coq au vin, fennel confit, and herb salad]

Another Cool Fest has come and gone. The theme for my contribution was ‘French peasant,’ with lots of comfy, messy dishes like coq au vin, rabbit cassoulet, lentil soup, and chocolate tarts. As usual, I took hardly any photos because I was so swamped bustling around the kitchen (I really wish I had remembered to get a shot of that apple tart I made the first night!), but it’s hard to complain about a weekend that was so full of love and friendship and generosity. And so, so much killer music! Cool Fest never fails to inspire me. Big thanks to all my pals who helped me wash and chop vegetables!

A SPECIFIC CRAVING

The other night, I was struck with an inexplicable, deep craving for spaghetti and meatballs. Nothing else would do. Not lasagna, not pizza, not any other kind of pasta. Spaghetti and meatballs. The Italian-American kind, the sloppy, rustic meatball that drowns in red sauce and a blanket of grated Parmesan. Who knows where cravings come from, but I identified mine, and it had to be quashed.

So I made it happen. I made up the recipe as I went along, loosely looking at the Barefoot Contessa version, too. I used equal thirds of ground beef, pork, and veal, and added panko, egg yolks, chopped shallots, and water until the mixture felt moist and ready. The sauce was a simple-enough combination of San Marzano tomatoes, onions, red wine, garlic, and thyme, and it simmered away for hours. And as for the pasta, well, I bought that fresh from Milano!

We dove into the meatballs alongside some decadent garlic bread (I split open a baguette, slather it with a compound garlic-parsley butter, tightly wrap it up in aluminum foil, and gently reheat in a 250 oven until soft and fragrant), a fishy Caesar salad, and lots of red Italian wine. Easiest dinner party of all time!

LONG-DISTANCE CHAT WITH SASHA

[All photos by Sasha]

Many of you know Sasha from her beautiful blog, but I am lucky enough to know her in real life. When I lived in Ithaca, we became very close. I was really drawn to Sasha’s creativity, intelligence, beauty, honesty, kindness, humor (she’s so sarcastic, though you might not know it on her blog!), and, of course, killer thrifting skills.

Fortunately, my move to Montreal hasn’t compromised our friendship at all; we both love writing and talking, so it has been easy for us to stay close. Last summer, I wrote a story for Acquired Taste about Sasha’s gorgeous home and her magical summer parties, but so much has changed since then.  So I asked Sasha if I could interview her — again — and happily she said yes.

Natasha: It seems like your cooking style has changed quite drastically in the last six or seven months.

Sasha: I’ve been in a really healthy + macrobiotic-leaning phase lately. I think I was heading there anyway, but then a big change in my life (the ending of a long-term relationship, going from cooking for two people to cooking just for me), kind of gave it a bigger push. I think I needed food to really be something very specific, really grounding and healing. I think it’s starting to shift again, like this morning I woke up and put on a big pot of chicken soup to cook, which I haven’t done in a while.

In a certain way, I think I get really, really into things for one reason or another, like a certain spice or way of cooking, and do it to the exclusion of everything else, until I feel I’ve absorbed it well enough, or as much as I want to. Like I will only eat a certain way for a while, or use a certain herb in everything (like chamomile) until I feel like I have a grasp on what it’s about. Then I can branch out again with some new understanding of something.

I started eating in this way that felt more delicate to me, because I felt that way to myself. And for the most part, it’s kind of stuck. Before, I ate more 70s and 80s-style vegetarian, mixed with middle eastern spices, peppered in with a little Weston A. Price / Nourishing Traditions ethos. (Like, organ meats and whole food everything). Now it’s way more macrobiotic leaning. Simpler. I’m into steaming things, and eating roots, especially burdock, very grounding.

Natasha: How does your approach to cooking change from season to season?

Sasha: I used to be way more intense about trying to eat with the seasons. I’ve gotten more lax, but have perpetual non-seasonal eating guilt. I try not to buy things that have been shipped from California to New York, but sometimes I break down, and, like, buy an orange, and then proceed to eat it with guilt.

Natasha: Could you describe a typical day of eating?

Sasha: I get up really early, feed the dogs, and have coffee with hot raw milk. I look forward to my coffee the night before, it’s totally ritualistic and thrilling. I always eat breakfast before I go to work, or make it and bring it in a container. It’s always oatmeal, steel cut oats, but I vary what else goes in the pot depending on the day. I like chamomile in there. Also tahini. But not together, at least I haven’t put them together yet.

I make a cup of oatmeal at a time and keep the leftovers either sitting out or in the fridge. Basically I’ll have hot oatmeal one day and then eat it cold the rest of the days until it’s gone. Sometimes it’s gone really fast and others it lasts longer depending how good my combo was! : )))

For lunch, I usually grab random things. The pace at work is pretty fast so I’m eating something like a banana (guilt-ridden) or dried fruit + nuts in the dishroom before running out to the floor again. And then I’ll eat some eggs at the end of the shift and then something when I get home. Dinner I am pretty much always eating solo, so I make whatever I feel like, usually something with vegetables and a grain and something with protein.

I often make a good amount of rice so I have some leftover, and I always have hard boiled eggs in the fridge. I don’t really eat white sugar. I feel like it’s totally a drug for me, has to be all or nothing. I totally eat an absurd amount of honey, and other sweeteners like maple syrup and brown rice syrup, but I can’t take real sweets, I’m so not used to that taste. Like a lot of people, I don’t have health or dental insurance, so not eating sugar is my homegrown closest-I-can-get-to-health-insurance policy. Although, I’ve been eating so much dried fruit these days, which I never really did before, and I think it’s affecting my teeth! I think I need a break even from that.

For “dessert” I always want apple sauce, which I make a huge pot of and keep re-making when it’s gone, with tons of dried fruit, kind of like fruit compote more than apple sauce. Or I’ll have yogurt with dried fruit or fruit crisp, I love making (+ eating) crisps.

I drink so much tea with milk + honey, which feels like dessert to me, especially chamomile mixed with peppermint and poppy. My friend Alexis made it for me once and I’ve made it all the time since. Makes you really chilled out.

Natasha: What’s your feeling about restaurants? Your blog is mostly about the kind of food you enjoy at home.

Sasha: I love cooking, and I work in a restaurant so I spend a lot of time in one already. And I live in a smallish town where I grew up so I kind of exercised my eating out options long ago. When I take trips I like eating out places (though am usually very ready to get back to home cooking by the end). If I do eat out I either find something similar to the way I like eating (healthy, vegetarian-leaning or good sources for meats), something regional that I totally don’t know how to make or know about the spices, or I’d want to save up and go somewhere more high-end, but not pretentious feeling. For a long time I’ve wanted to eat at Oleana in Boston, Ana Sortun’s restaurant. That’s the one place I’ve thought consciously I’d really like to go eat.

Natasha: What is your plan of attack when you buy groceries and food for yourself?

Sasha: I always have staples like grains, beans, dried fruit, and nuts. I buy from the bulk section, so I’m always bringing my empty jars to refill. I buy fresh stuff as much as possible locally, from the winter farmer’s market. Last week I bought a 50 pound bag of carrots and 15 pounds of apples and keep them in chest of drawers in my cold garage.

Natasha: What are your thoughts on cooking with others? I’m a little particular about it. There are some people I love to cook with (Adam), but then there are other scenarios where I really prefer to work alone.

Sasha:  I pretty much always cook alone, I love cooking alone. Though I have made some meals recently with my little sister Anja, who is an amazing cook on her own, and that’s been really fun. We don’t have to talk. Sometimes we’ll ask the other for advice, like, “Do you think this would be good in here?”

I think cooking alongside someone that already really knows how and has their own sense of flavors can be also a great feeling, because you’ll both bring something different to the table than you would have alone. You get an interesting meal out of it, and it’s cool to see someone making something you could make yourself, but see how they do it differently, put more of this or less of that than you would have…

Natasha: Do you find that you tend to cook different kinds of meals if you’re cooking for a group, rather than just cooking for yourself?

Sasha: The first thing that I think when I think how I cook differently for myself v. others is that when I cook for myself I make stuff that goes in a bowl. Like, I just pull out my wooden bowl and start putting stuff in it, usually stuff I already have, no cooking involved. Maybe I’ll steam some kale to add to other leftover things. Cooking for other people, there’s more chance of eating on a plate. And I actually “cook” a bunch of things that go together.

Natasha: What is your attitude about cookbooks? Do you ever use recipes anymore? In what way do they function as resources or inspiration?

Sasha: I used cookbooks in a hardcore way when I first started cooking, like I totally followed recipes. That feels like a really long time ago. Now they’re the backbone of my understanding of ingredients, but I do more my own thing — a combination of that and recipes that I’ve cooked so many times I know them by heart. I go back to cookbooks periodically just to look through and remind myself of things and get new ideas.

Natasha: How have you seen your own blog grow and change? How and why did it begin?

Sasha: I think with things in general, maybe/likely it’s this way for everyone, I just feel a compulsion and ultimately if it keeps nagging at me until I follow through.

I had kind of discovered this world of blogs and something about it drew me in, it became something I was compelled to do myself. I would think about it a lot, not really know why, and then one day just signed up for one and posted. I remember it feeling really strange but also exciting, the first post on there.

And it’s cool, the first blogs I went to where I felt like, yea, I love what they’re doing, are still blogs that I go to regularly now, like Ashley’s blog and Mary’s blog.

When I really think about it, the desire to do it, it was just about getting to know myself more, organizing my thoughts and creating this world inside a world that felt like somehow it could get me closer to who I was/am. Basically just the desire to do things to get closer to oneself, I think my blog functions like that for me.

Natasha: How do you balance the different topics you like to write about — like food, fashion, film, music, art, etc?

Sasha: I don’t consciously set out to make it any particular way, though I think I try to balance, like, food posts with other sorts of things so it doesn’t feel too heavy in one area. But more like they are all one thing, they all go together. I think with things in general, I like things to feel simultaneously blurry and sharp. A lot of films I love have this feeling about them, it’s how life feels to me and I think I want my blog to reflect that fuzzy-but-crisp-ness somehow. Like you’re simultaneously really close to something and also so far away from it, you see it but you don’t.

I feel torn between the impressionistic blog and the truth-as-truth blog (ie. show-me-your-dirty-dishes). So I think I want to try to blend those two things, not be too far on either side. Probably sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t, definitely I’ve looked back at old posts and cringed, like looking at an old diary…

Natasha: We’ve all been there. Okay, some quick questions. Indispensable cooking tools?

Sasha: CAST IRON SKILLETS! Wooden spoons. Mortar + pestle.

Natasha: Dream kitchen gadgets you would like to own?

Sasha: A really nice suribachi (my mortar really is awful and I use it all the time, always grind spices by hand from whole, don’t buy pre-ground) + a grain mill/grinder, this one, but it’s so expensive!

Natasha: #1 food item you would bring to a desert island?

Sasha: South River chickpea miso! (As long as the island had drinking water).

Natasha: Haha so practical. Favorite kind of snacks?

Sasha: I keep a jar of miso at work and eat that like a snack — just add hot water and drink. Bananas…

Natasha: What is a typical dinner?

Sasha: Leftover grain (usually barley or brown rice— I like to mix sweet brown with short grain brown), some protein (either leftover cooked beans, some fish, or a hard-boiled egg, or yogurt and nuts), something green, sauerkraut, and maybe leftover tahini dressing on top.

Thank you Sasha!! See more of her wonderful blog here.

QUAIL, NAUGHTY

I finally had Dan and Julia over so I could give little Jojo the silk pink vest I bought for her in Hong Kong! (Doesn’t she look adorable?) To celebrate the occasion I made a kid-friendly supper, which included Ethan Stowell’s roast quail stuffed with kale, sage, breadcrumbs and pancetta (we told Jojo it was chicken), roasted carrots and purple potatoes, and a big arugula salad with roasted beets, seared fennel, toasted sesame seeds, walnuts, and shaved Pecorino. And Julia’s perfect brownies to end the evening!

In Ethan’s recipe, you’re supposed to truss up the quails using a combination of string and foil, but I was in a rush and forgot — which explains why the quails look so lewd, with their legs splayed wide open! It was still delicious — the roasting meat seasons and moistens the kale tucked inside the cavity, so everything comes together perfectly seasoned and juicy. Plus, you get to eat with your hands. Kid-friendly, indeed!

RESTAURANT MELODIES

Last month I hosted a small concert at Le Pick Up for my friends Steve Gunn and Doc Dunn. We rarely have concerts at the restaurant because of its tiny size and residential location but it turned out to be perfectly suited for the mellow music. It was such a cozy night!

Adam and I took advantage of the kitchen space and prepared dinner for the touring musicians, including an awesome Moro East cauliflower soup, which is flavored with cumin seeds, pine nuts, and paprika. Super recommended. (I found the recipe online here!) Adam also whipped up two Roman-inspired dishes, including an incredible puntarelle salad with halved grapes and anchovies (totally inspired combo — especially if you like bitterness), and a streamlined pasta dish flavored with tiny navy beans, roasted red peppers, and greens.

And to finish, big slices of my red velvet cake. Not as elegant but who turns down a piece of cake? HA!