Category Archives: baking

TOOTHACHES

Holidays are always a fun time for me at the Dépanneur because I get to bust out my campiest baking. (Last year for Valentine’s Day I made “blue valentines”: heart-shaped sugar cookies covered with a blue glaze and a frowny face). For Easter, I made this carrot cake “bird’s nest,” a few fruit tarts, some chestnut turnovers, and my favorite — my own maple tart. It’s a Quebecois-inspired homage to Lindsey Shere’s infamous almond tart. I swap sugar for local maple syrup and Shere’s slivered almonds for chopped walnuts. The end result is super sweet, sticky and delicious. (Oh, and if anyone wants a foolproof carrot cake recipe, I swear by Thomas Keller’s, which uses cake flour and is crazy moist.)

A SIMPLE TART

There are a handful of cookbook authors that speak to me — I know I’ve mentioned Nancy Silverton, Richard Olney, Elizabeth Schneider, Sam and Sam Clark, Marcella Hazan, Elizabeth David and a few others in this space — but it’s been a while since a title has had a truly profound effect. I first started thinking about David Tanis while Adam was doing research for a story on private restaurants (Tanis runs a 6-seat “restaurant” in his tiny apartment in Paris), and while I was familiar with his name — mostly in association with his past life as a chef at Chez Panisse, and more recently with his (outstanding) NYT lamb curry  — I had never opened one of his books.

A Platter of Figs is one of the best, happiest cookbooks that I’ve come across in a long time. The photos are lush and inspiring, and Tanis’ writing is honest, loving, and thoughtful. Plus! The recipes are organized by season and menu, an organizational technique I first admired in Olney’s The French Menu Cookbook.

When I first got hold of the volume, I was in the midst of planning the menu for Cool Fest. I started flipping through the book, and wound up reading the entire thing, front to cover. Right now I’m obsessed with his apple tart, which I made at Cool Fest, and continue to make at dinner parties and for work. It’s delicate, sweet, and crisp — think faux-puff pastry. I love it.

The recipe is so basic I already have it memorized — though you can find a proper writing-out of it here — and was so easy to execute I was able to make it at midnight at Cool Fest, half-drunk and exhausted. Not bad for a pastry recipe! Like the rest of his recipes, this fruit tart lacks fussiness or complexity, but the final product emerges with a richness and elegance that I really appreciate. Right now I’m loving his tart with a mixed fruit blend of plums, pears, and apples, and a big, fat spoonful of freshly whipped cream. It’s the perfect everyday tart.

IT’S A DESSERT TO CRY OVER

I was catching up on last week’s Slice posts over at Serious Eats (sometimes I have to actively wait to read their posts until after I’ve eaten a meal and feel full, otherwise I get such intense hunger pangs for pizza!), and totally fell in love with this new video series feating Nancy Silverton, of La Brea Bakery and Pizzeria Mozza fame.

So you can imagine how stoked I was to poke on the Internet for a few seconds longer, only to find this totally incredible old-school video series featuring a very young and very beautiful Nancy Silverton with Julia Child! I have to admit, ever since Ashley planted a bug in my head about starting a video series, I haven’t been able to shake it. If I ever attempted such a feat, I would want it to be as genuine and loving as the moments shared between these two women.

Watching Nancy show Julia how she makes her custard brioche tart with sauteed fruits (!) is beyond inspiring. It’s actually really moving. (There’s another video here). So much passion and love and care. I could watch that woman whisk a sabayon forever! (And also — love learning that Nancy likes to fortify her whipped cream with creme fraiche. Now that I know that, I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to make it another way!)

“Powdered sugar? That’s about as far as this can go, isn’t it?” And I’m dead. Thank you internet for existing.

RESTAURANT MELODIES

Last month I hosted a small concert at Le Pick Up for my friends Steve Gunn and Doc Dunn. We rarely have concerts at the restaurant because of its tiny size and residential location but it turned out to be perfectly suited for the mellow music. It was such a cozy night!

Adam and I took advantage of the kitchen space and prepared dinner for the touring musicians, including an awesome Moro East cauliflower soup, which is flavored with cumin seeds, pine nuts, and paprika. Super recommended. (I found the recipe online here!) Adam also whipped up two Roman-inspired dishes, including an incredible puntarelle salad with halved grapes and anchovies (totally inspired combo — especially if you like bitterness), and a streamlined pasta dish flavored with tiny navy beans, roasted red peppers, and greens.

And to finish, big slices of my red velvet cake. Not as elegant but who turns down a piece of cake? HA!

 

 

ROSE BAKERY

Has anyone had any experience cooking from the Rose Bakery cookbook? It’s published by Phaidon and is beautiful. People have told me that the Rose Bakery’s Anglo-inspired baked goods remind them a little of my style at Le Pick Up, so I recently purchased this book on a whim while showing my friend Steve around the neighborhood. This last photo — ‘The Counter at Tea-Time’ — is totally my dream fantasy of what the baking display at the Pick Up would look like in a perfect world. Lots of pound cakes, muffins, madeleines, and tiny scones. Excited to delve into these recipes and see what works and what doesn’t.

AT HOME WITH SASH

Since my Acquired Taste story about Sasha isn’t available online, I thought I would post some of the photos I took when I visited her last summer. I have so many, I kind of want to share them all.

It was really humid that day, the kind where staying inside is almost unbearable. Being in a hot kitchen, even worse. Typical upstate New York summer, it rained on and off all afternoon, but we took every opportunity to escape outside to her backyard for wine or to go on walks.

I love writing about my best friends. It’s happening more and more, almost emerging as a pattern, which made me realize how fascinating and talented and smart my loved ones really are. I’ve long admired Sasha’s intuitive and thoughtful cooking style, yet I had never really watched her “in action.” (Whenever I would arrive at her house for dinner parties, everything would already be ready to go!)

More photos to come….

MOLDINGS + NOT-SO-SUBTLE HINTS

Wouldn’t these be perfect for molded marzipan? They remind me of the shortbread molds my mother used when I was growing up, which featured elaborate engravings of old botanical drawings. They were beautiful.

I know my boyfriend reads this here blog, so I’m just gonna leave these images here and hope for the best. Not subtle, I know, but Valentine’s Day is only two weeks away, people!

[via House on the Hill]

CAKE BREAK

Being the Dep’s baker, I’m the go-to person for birthday cakes and other celebratory sweets. Not that I mind, of course. For a recent quadruple birthday party, I decided on a dark chocolate-stout triple-layer cake with dark chocolate ganache and hot chocolate-flavored whipped cream. Super, super rich and super, super good.

OLD-SCHOOL PIES MADE PERFECT

I have some really fun news to share! Yesterday the Montreal Gazette ran a megastory I wrote about how to recreate old-school Montreal-style pizza at home. This isn’t just any kind of pizza, this is Montreal pizza, so I had a very specific image in my mind of what I wanted the final product to look and taste like. More than anything, I wanted the recipes to feel approachable for home cooks who wouldn’t normally go to the trouble of making their own pies, but who wanted the similar kind of decadence and comfort that a Montreal pie offers. (My recipe for shaved Brussels sprout and pancetta pizza isn’t exactly a Montreal tradition, but I had to include it!)

Montrealers really love their pizza, even though it can be pretty crappy. But it’s the enthusiasm and passion that Quebeckers have for their regional cuisine that I find so inspiring and awesome. Yesterday my story was the Gazette website’s most read and most emailed story! I like thinking that a lot of people out there are planning to make pizza this weekend.

You can read the full story here. And the full recipes are here!

[All photos by Vincenzo D'Alto]

SCONE SIMPLICITY

There are a million fancy ways to bake scones, from the somewhat reasonable (including additional ingredients like buttermilk, eggs, cornmeal, or oats) to the decidedly un-British (tropical dried fruit, chopped nuts, herbs, cheese). And while at work I sometimes experiment with crazier varieties (like a bacon, dried fig, and black pepper iteration), at home I like to keep it traditional: a plain, no-egg scone, maybe dotted with dried currants (and if my mom has sent me a care package from Trader Joe’s, then their dried blueberries), and slathered with warm butter and some jam. That’s it. These scones, with their absence of eggs and any kind of electric mixer, are so easy to make at home, and I like to whip them up when I have some half-and-half perishing in the fridge. I have a loose recipe memorized (which I believe I originally poached from an old Gourmet cookbook), and the proportions go something like this:

(Note: Scones bake at a much higher temperature than normal pastry; because of this, I like to use the convection function of my oven, which allows for the scone to get crisp and golden on top. No one likes a scorched scone).

You’ll need:
1 C AP flour, sifted
2 T white granulated sugar (plus more for sprinkling)
1 1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
4 T cold butter, cut into small pieces
6 T half and half (plus more for brushing dough)
1/2 C dried currants (soften with boiling water if really hard)
Preheat oven to 400 and line a pan with parchment.
Stir flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.
With fingers, quickly work in the cold butter, until semi-incorporated into flour (small peas of butter is good!).
Slowly drizzle in half and half, stirring bowl with a fork, until dough comes together into shaggy ball.
Add currants.
Turn dough onto counter and shape into a disc about 1/2″ high.
Cut into 4 wedges, and move to parchment-lined pan.
Brush scones with remaining half and half, and sprinkle with sugar (turbinado, if you have it!).
Bake 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown.

The next time you have someone over for tea or a coffee, offer them these. They will not be turned down.

(Unrelated query: how do you stash your cookbooks? For me, they have to be in plain sight, because I use these selected few all the time. But they also look a little weird leaning against the refrigerator, no? I’m looking for an elegant and simple solution that doesn’t mean hiding them in a drawer somewhere.)