There’s nothing quite like a proper summer BBQ — held outside on a drizzling, humid July night — that pools together the talents of your friends. Cassady and Adam opened beautiful bottles of wine all night, and made sure I never saw the bottom of my glass. Noam from Kaizen, having just finished a 10-hour shift at the restaurant, grilled a few dozen quails until golden and charred. (What a champion!) Adam made a delicious spread of smoked eel from Kamouraska, fennel fronds, and milk bread toasts. Marc from Lawrence grilled duck hearts, served alongside simple salad of green beans, anchovy and radishes. And I roasted vegetables — beets and new potatoes from Birri, wrapped tightly in aluminum foil, and tossed directly on the coals — and made the easiest dessert ever. (This cake, which has yet to let me down.) We were spread around Cass’ back stoop, dishes perched on our laps, and picked at the tender quail meat with our hands, throwing the bones directly into the fire. Messy, delicious eating, and one of the best moments of the summer so far.