SOME OF EVERYTHING AT DINETTE TRIPLE CROWN

Anticipation for Beaver Sheppard’s new soul food restaurant has been bubbling since he left Depanneur Le Pick Up exactly one year ago. (This was the spread I made for his teary going-away party.) Dinette Triple Crown — a reference to thoroughbred racing — serves its own triple crown of soul-food classics: fried chicken, brisket, and pulled pork. They’ve been open for a few weeks and it’s every bit as good as I knew it would be. (Though there’s a bit of an exhausting debate over the neo-bbq trend in Montreal over at Chowhound).

On my first official visit, my parents and I couldn’t decide what to order, so Beaver insisted that he would prepare an order featuring a little bit of every single item on the menu. It was an incredible feast. My mom loved the roasted sweet potatoes, green goddess salad, and stewed black eyed peas; my dad loved the crisp fried chicken and skillet-crisp cornbread; I adored the fatty brisket, vinegary barbecue sauce, coleslaw, and stewed swiss chard. (Though I’ve been back and it’s now stewed kale — and even better and more savory than I remembered).

I’m so thrilled for Beaver and his new baby. I imagine that it’s every serious chef’s dream to open their own place someday, and this place has Beaver’s idiosyncratic marks all over it. And finally: they serve picnic baskets to go (there are some beautiful images of an afternoon picnic over at Lake Jane), complete with tablecloth. Classy!

2 Responses to SOME OF EVERYTHING AT DINETTE TRIPLE CROWN

  1. I may have just swooned. I LOVE BBQ! And all those dishes look amazing. Definitely a must-visit next time I’m in Montreal.

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