Monthly Archives: May 2011

RAMPS IN THE MONTREAL GAZETTE

Last month I began working on the beginnings of a story about ail des bois, or ramps, for the Montreal Gazette, our city’s estimable daily newspaper.

I was so excited to write this story for a million reasons, the main one being a chance to go on a foraging adventure with Nancy and Francois, the rad, supremely talented duo behind wild foods restaurant Les Jardins Sauvages.

If you had a chance to see the print copy of the Gazette yesterday, then you saw the best part — three pages of crazy photos, full of color and inspiration and life. (I’ll try to scan in the photos later this week).

But all of the photos featured in the online slide show are different from the print version, and were from the photoshoot that I alluded to several weeks ago. It was such an honor and a thrill to have my humble food captured by a professional photographer. I’ve never, ever seen my food look so good.

The story also marks the very first time that my recipes have been published professionally. I can’t even begin to explain what that has felt like for me. I thought for so long and so hard about what recipes I wanted to share in the story. I wanted to make sure that they felt like me, that they were food that I make all the time, at home, for myself and for others that I love.

I solicited the ideas of my closest friends, including Sasha and Kathryn and Alison. They all had great ideas, but I realized that I wanted the recipes to represent me in a really honest and genuine way. The purple fingerling potato and fennel gratin pictured above? I was inspired by the exact same dish that I made for dear friends in Ithaca just last month.

I was really happy with the recipes I ended up developing: ramps vinaigrette (pictured above), ramps fregula, and ramps gratin. They’re all so easy to make and I am so happy to share them with you.

I’ll post outtakes from the photoshoot later this week — as well as my own shots from our foraging adventure in the Quebec woods! But in the meantime, I’ll save my two favorite photos for last.

These aerial shots were a collaborative idea between me and John, and I really love how they turned out. They remind me of a Dutch still life, a table spilling over with food. Aren’t they insane?

Read the full story here.

Pastry workshop with Pâtisserie Rhubarbe’s Stéphanie Labelle!

Hello Montreal readers!

I’m thrilled to announce the next food workshop here at Le Pick Up.

Please join us for an evening with Stéphanie Labelle, the talented chef and owner of Pâtisserie Rhubarbe!

Labelle, a graduate of the ITHQ pastry program, has worked at Area, Première Moisson, and Les Chocolates de Chloé, where she was the first employee. She has spent time working with the famous Parisian pastry chef/guru Pierre Hermé, and worked in the kitchens of Decca77, Le 357C, and La Salle à Manger. She opened Rhubarbe last fall, and it’s been a huge hit. We’re so excited to have her join us at the Dep!

On Tuesday, May 31, we will explore ways to incorporate rhubarb: the tart, tangy vegetable that thinks it’s a fruit. This summer plant isn’t just about pies — we’ll be making a variety of sweet desserts loaded with fresh rhubarb, from panna cotta to tender financiers, and much more.

The workshop will begin promptly at 8pm. Each participant will be making his or her own desserts to take home, with guidance and instruction from Stéphanie. The registration is $40 and will cove all costs for the desserts provided.

We are located at 7032 rue Waverly, and are a cozy and intimate space — so please register soon as there are a very limited number of spots! Cash only, please. To register, please email me at Natasha.pickowicz [at] gmail [dot] com.

I hope you’ll join us as we ring in the summer season in a deliciously sweet-and-tart fashion!

WHITE MAGIC

This is definitely one of the most beautiful plates of food I have seen in a long time. Delicate, romantic, and full of texture and sweet, aromatic notes.

Don’t worry, I didn’t make it. I arrived home very late — just having witnessed the all-too surreal spectacle of seeing my friends Dreamcatcher open for godspeed you! black emperor — and was welcomed with this lovely plate of food and a chilly glass of burgundy. A single, supple fillet of cod, poached in coconut milk and orange blossom water, was flaked into ethereal oblivion and garnished with black pepper. It made me want to eat more carefully, more delicately. I was just as taken with the feathery salad, too, which was simple, but perfect: thinly sliced fennel, blood orange suprêmes (a great tutorial on how to achieve this here), orange blossom water, lime, and a dab of honey. Proof that food can be magic.

MORE EQUATIONS

Scallops + coral + parsley oil + garlic // heaven

Farfalle + brown lentils + minced carrot, red onion, garlic, parsley, bell pepper + lemon + splash of pasta water // (Big) 20 minute lunch

Beef tenderloin + peppers + onions + avocado + refried beans + lime over all + crackling pita // 20 minute TV dinner (hockey of course)

Beef stock + tomato paste + lentils + chipotles in adobo + potatoes + zucchini + cilantro // A very spicy, smoky soup

Fregola + fresh favas + mint + anchovy + capers (they are the same size exactly as fregola! Such a satisfying mouthfeel) + hot peppers + crispy artichokes + scallions // Sticky, chewy pasta (the best ever)

Cubed potatoes + shallot + lard + rosemary + smoked paprika // A quick snack that turned into lunch. (I always fry parboiled potatoes in a cast-iron skillet; the  crust is unbeatable, and the bits of shallot get super-crispy and charred).

MISSING YOU

He hasn’t even been gone a full week, but I already miss my partner so much! I’m pathetic. I know.

A few days before leaving for Italy, he surprised me with my favorite breakfast: two eggs fried in duck fat, sliced bell peppers and red onion, stinky cheese, toasted kamut bread and butter, tissue-thin prosciutto, freshly made blood orange juice (the last of the season, sigh), and green tea. Oh, and this stunning platter of exotic dried and fresh fruits, including Izmir figs, Tajikistan apricots, Hong Kong dried papaya, San Diego sour cherries, mini guavas + Muscat grapes. The apricots blew my mind.

My eating habits have been much more… erratic since he’s left. Last week, I steadily ate from a pot of dal for four meals straight (including breakfast), until it was gone. Yesterday, I had gummi bears for lunch, and a single piece of toast for dinner. Adam, come back!

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THANK YOU MOMS

So many rad photos of moms floating around the internet today.

Happy Mother’s Day!

TRIPLE TEAM

I wish I had remembered to post this a full day earlier, but I’ve had a long week—

Benoît Chaput, founder of L’Oie de Cravan Press and bilingual cultural journal Le Bathyscaphe, hosted a wonderful triple-book release and concert last night at the Sala Rossa. I wrote a teeny thing about it for the Montreal Mirror, excerpted here:

Manhattan-born critic Byron Coley began documenting the music underground in the 1970s, as strains of rock, punk, noise and free jazz thrashed and congealed into something startlingly elec­tric. C’est la guerre: Early Writing 1978-1983 traces the contours of his earliest writing, with thrilling, wry essays on musicians like David Bowie, Lydia Lunch, and the Minutemen. 

Friday also launches The Words to the Songs of Michael Hurley, a bilingual book of lyrics by American folk legend Michael Hurley. His sweet melodies and eccentric visual imagery make Hur­ley—perpetually underrated for four decades—one of America’s finest songwriters, yet The Words to the Songs marks the first time his lyrics have been published in book form.

I’ve been an admirer of Coley’s acerbic, Beatnik-flecked music journalism for quite some time (that’s him in the photo above), and his columns for Arthur and The Wire add a much needed levity and wittiness to both pubs. And, of course, my love for the Snock knows no bounds, though admittedly I was surprised at how indie rock-ified most of the music was last night. Was hoping for more of an old-soul vibe, but c’est la vie!

Buy these books from L’Oie de Cravan now!

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ROOTING AROUND

I had a super fun photo shoot at the house today, so I bought some spring tulips to celebrate the occasion. I can’t wait to share the results with you next week!

POTATO FAMINE

When Smitten Kitchen posted the photos for the captivating, ridged Crispy Potato Roast, I knew immediately that I had to make it. (I did make a potato chip pizza, after all). The recipe was unfailingly simple, if a bit tedious (I actually had to tuck little slivers of onion in between every potato slice, which gives it the nice fanned, uneven look). The results were stunning, so you can imagine my massive disappointment when the dish was revealed to be quite boring. Plain. Meh.

I don’t think it was because I didn’t adhere perfectly to the recipe — I subbed a red onion, cut thinly, for the shallots, and sprigs of rosemary for the thyme — I just think that the recipe is somewhat of a dud. I didn’t care for the red pepper flakes, and I could barely taste the rosemary. It’s neither a crispy, golden potato chip, nor a luxurious, creamy gratin. It was just… there. Under-seasoned and a bit limp.

I have to reiterate that moments like this is why I don’t really use recipes. I could see how this dish could be improved, at least for me: I’d reduce the amount of butter and olive oil, and add a few glugs of veal stock and heavy cream. And lest you think that my iteration takes the easy route of deliciousness, vis-a-vis cream and meat, I will also remind you that my vegan version of potato gratin is equally, if not more, delicious (sub all dairy and meat products for white wine, fennel, gorgeous olive oil, loads of herbs, and piles of breadcrumbs).

Also, this dish makes a ridiculous amount of food. (I used about four very large Russets). To think that I made this dish just for me and my partner is laughable, because then I had to wade through the leftovers for about five days.

WORKING LADY

These days, I rarely eat at my desk while I’m working because it’s often an impenetrable mess, covered with magazines and half-finished poster designs and four-day old coffee cups and little scraps of paper and crumb traces of ancient snacks past. Even though I secretly love clutter, I know it really grosses my partner out, so occasionally I force myself to clear away a space long enough to eat a plate of food and move on with my day.

[A note on the couscous: I am ashamed of this couscous, so much so that I was a little afraid to post these photos. Have you ever had a dish that you were so good at making that you bragged about it to everyone you knew, only to one day inexplicably lose your mojo and discover you can no longer make it, not even a little bit? Before I moved in with my partner, I boasted endlessly about how I made the perfect, fluffiest couscous you could imagine. Then one day, I couldn't make it anymore. Even in my strongest attempts to get my groove back, my couscous rebels against me and ends up dry, pebbly, and deeply embarrassing. The perfectionist in me is deeply mortified by stuff like this. Has this happened to anyone else?!]