Possessed with an intense desire to eat spoonfuls of my summer pesto, I peered into the freezer to pull out a jar of my summer reserves, only to see that it was the last jar. Always a sad moment for any home cook, but I’m heartened by the fact that in only a few weeks I’ll be able to make bountiful amounts of spring pesto with peas, wild ramps, and garlic scapes. I tossed this basil pesto with some hand-torn pasta, baby peas, haricot verts, smoked salmon, and shallots, and loosened up the sauce with a tablespoon of homemade chicken stock. Not the most photogenic of dishes, but delicious, and took about 15 minutes from opening a bag of pasta to sitting down and eating it.

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